
Class _JX-i:i-±-4:l 

Book .M-^- 

Copyright N^_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



WEAVING-PLAIN AND FANCY. 



BY 

THOMAS NELSON, 

DIRECTOR OF THE tEXTILE SCHOOL, 

NORTH CAROLINA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND MECHANIC 

ARTS, RALEIGH. 



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PREFACE. 

The writer hopes that the description and operation of the 
various motions on the looms as described in this book will 
prove beneficial to all iaterested in this subject. 

Thomas ^Nelson. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

PLAIN LOOM. — Shedding; Names of parts in shedding motion; 
Shedding cams; Setting harness connections; Timing of shed- 
ding cams; Relative cams and shuttles; To obtain size of shed; 
To obtain stroke of cam. Pages 7 to 11. 

PICKING. — Description of picking motion; Parallel motion; Set- 
ting the pickers; Picking cams; Timing of picking motion; 
Picking cones; Setting lug straps; Setting picker stick; Bind- 
ers or swells. Pages 11 to 17. 

BEATING UP. — Relation of timing of picking to beating up. Pages 
17 to 18. 

CHAPTER II. 

ADDITIONAL MOTIONS AND PARTS.— Auxiliary shaft; Changes 
required from plain to twills; Timing of twill or sateen cams; 
Tape selvage. Pages 19 to 21. 

Protectors; Filling stop motion; Setting fork; Shape of fork; Tim- 
ing of filling stop motion. Pages 21 to 24. 

Thin place preventor; Take up motion; Let off motion; Setting the 
motion. Pages 24 to 26. 

Temples, Setting the temples; Lease rods; Shuttles; Cover on 
cloth. Pages 26 to 30. 

CHAPTER III. 

FIXING POINTS. — Loom banging or slamming off; Change of at- 
mosphere; Rebounding shuttle; Cracked or part broken lug 
strap: Cracked picker stick; Worn pick point; Bolt loose that 
fixes stick to shoe; Heel spring too tight; Lost motion in cone; 
Shedding cams too early; Shedding cams too late; Loom gears 
worn; Belt slipping. Pages 31 to 33. 

LOOM STOPPING.— Rebounding shuttle; Filling catching on fork; 
Not sufficient friction on filling in shuttle; Fork too far through 
the grate; Elbow lever too high; Stop motion cam too early; 
Stop motion cam too late; Stand for shipper handle worn; 
Shipper handle spring weak; Occasional rubbing of dagger 
against receiver. Pages 33 to 35. 

SHUTTLE FLYING OUT.— Overfaced reed; Underfaced reed; Shed 
too late; Shed too early; Picker too low. Pages 35 to 36. 

UNEVEN CLOTH,— Rope on friction let off binding; Take up gears 
too tight; Small pinion gear too deep in beam head; Weak 
spring behind let-off pawl; Harness straps lapping under. 
Pages 36 to 37. 

BAD SELVAGES.— Not sufficient friction on filling-in shuttle; Fill- 
ing catching on picker; Filling catching on lay sole; Harness 
too low on one side; Filling fork prongs too short; Too much 
friction on filling-in shuttle. Pages 37 to 38. 

CUTTING FILLING.— Groove in shuttle not deep enough; Eyelet 
in shuttle sharp; Shuttle rising in box; Temple too low; Shut- 
tle spindle sharp. Page 38. 

FILLING BREAKING.— Pick too strong; Boxes too loose; Shuttle 
spindle too small for cop. Page 39. 



6 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER IV. 
GINGHAM LOOMS.— Box motion; Operation of motion and boxes; 

Timing of box motion. Pages 40 to 42. 
To change boxes to different positions. Pages 42 to 44. 

CHAPTER V. 
BdX CHAIN BUILDING.— Arranging the colors in boxes; Multi- 
plier. Pages 45 to 47. 
Still box motion; Operation of motion; Timing of motion; Breakage 
preventors; Shuttle check cam. Pages 48 to 52. 

CHAPTER VI. 

GINGHAM LOOM FIXING POINTS.— Shuttles; Swells; Sharp 

edges in boxes; Shuttles working loose in box; Putting on new 

picker; Guide plate. Pages 53 to 54. 
Setting the boxes; Boxes skipping. Pages 54 to 56. 

CHAPTER VII. 
DOBBY HEAD MOTION.— Double index dobby; Single index dobby; 

Operating double index dobby. Pages 57 to 60. 
Driving dobby; Driving chain barrel; Setting dobby on loom; 

Starting up dobbies; Obtaining the size of shed. Pages 61 to 64. 
Pattern chain pegging; Requirements of a good dobby; Preparation 

of harness shafts; Drawing in the warp; Starting up the warp. 

Pages 64 to 69. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

DOBBY FIXING POINTS.— Pegs in bar not set straight; Wrong 
setting of chain barrel; Chain barrel on wrong time; Weak 
spring on chain barrel shaft. Pages 70 to 71. 

Harness levers too tight; Jack hook binding; Index finger binding; 
Chain bar too short; Chain bar too large; Peg too short; Bent 
connecting links; Chain bars too far apart; Chain barrel not 
turned over far enough by pawl; Worn index finger and index 
finger rod; Other causes. Pages 72 to 74. 

CHAPTER IX. 

PICK AND PICK LOOMS Head motion; Operation of head mo- 
tion; Timing of head motion; Lock knife; Timing of Lock 
knife; Harness leveller; Reverse motion; Multiplier motion; 
Hand disconnector. Pages 75 to 82. 

Box motion; Regulating lift on boxes; Timing of box motion; Cylin- 
ders; Filling stop motion; Timing of filling stop motion; Bat 
wing pick. Pages 82 to 87. 

CHAPTER X. 
PICK AND PICK LOOM BOX CHAIN BUILDING.- Lay-out for box 

chains; Multiplier. Pages 88 to 92. 

CHAPTER XI. 
HEAD MOTION FIXING POINTS.— Miss-picks; Links on chain bar 
wrong; Sprung bars; Worn bars; Worn riser; Worn links; 
Short links; Bent links; Loose chilled run; Chain barrel on 
wrong time. Pages 93 to 94. 



WEAVING— PLAIN AND FANCY, 



CHAPTER I. 



PLAIN LOOM. 

Shedding. — The first principal movement in weaving is 
"Shedding." A clotli consists of two series of threads, warp 
threads and filling threads. The warp threads are drawn 
through the harness and the harness are raised in a certain 
order. In a plain cloth one harness is raised and the other 
lowered. This opening or separating of the threads is to 
enable the shuttle to pass through them and lay in the filling. 
This is known as the "Shed." 





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Fig. 1. 
Names of Parts in Shedding Motion. — A sketch of the 
shedding motion is given at Fig. T. The parts are as fol- 



8 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

lows: A, collar or boss on harness roller. B, harness con- 
nected to roller by harness straps. C, jack sticks. D, 
treadles fulcrumed on back girt of loom and connected to 
harness by straps and hooks. E, shedding cams. F, treadle 
ball. Notice. — Collar on harness roller is of two distinct 
sizes. Front harness is connected to smallest part of collar. 
Back harness to largest part of collar. It is absolutely neces- 
sary to connect back harness to largest part of collar because 
back harness being farther away from fell of cloth (fell of 
cloth is last pick of filling put in cloth) has to travel a 
ffieater distance than front harness to make same size of shed. 

Shedding Cams.- — One shedding cam is also larger than the 
other. The back harness is connected to the treadle which 
the largest cam operates. The reason for this is the same as 
given for collar on roller, viz, back harness travels farther 
than front harness ; also the back harness is connected to the 
treadle nearer the cams, consequently nearer the fulcrum 
than the front harness, and for this reason a larger cam is 
necessary to equalize the size of shed. 

There are in use practically three distinct kinds of shed- 
ding cams, viz, one-third, one-half, two-thirds dwell cam. 
The meaning of the tenn dwell is as follows: In one fidl 
revolution of the cam the harness are stationary for that por- 
tion of the revolution ; therefore that portion of revolution 
of crank shaft. The one-third dwell cam can only be used 
on narrow looms. They are of service when tender or poor 
yarns have to be woven because of the even movement given 
to the harness when changing. As there is only a small 
amount of dwell the cams must be set on correct time with 
the picking motion. If not set on time poor selvages will 
result. A smaller shuttle has often to be used with these 
cams so as to get clear through the shed on time. The best 
practical cam that can be used is the one-half dwell cam. 



SETTING HARNESS CONNECTIONS. 9 

This has advantages over the one-third dwell cam. The har- 
ness are stationary one-half revolution of crank shaft, which 
gives sufficient time for the shuttle to get clear through the 
shed. There is one7half revolution of crank shaft to change 
the harness. With a well constructed cam the harness will 
run almost as easy as the harness with a one-third dwell cam. 
Cover can be put on the cloth because the filling can be 
beaten up in an open shed. On wide looms a two-third dwell 
cam is often used. The harness are stationary for two-thirds 
of a revolution of crank shaft. This leaves only one-third of 
a i*evolution to change the harness for next pick, consequently 
a sudden movement is given to the harness, which has a ten- 
dency to strain the yarn. The harness are soon worn out. 
Soft or tender yarns can not be used with this cam. 

Setting Harness Connections. — ^When cams are level, the 
harness roller, harness and treadles must also be set level. 
In setting the harness roller level care must be taken so that 
when the harness opens the straps will not lap under on the 
collar, or an uneven, jerky motion will result. The harness 
must be set so that when the shed is open the threads will 
not rest on the race plate, or the continued backward and for- 
ward movement of the lay will soon chafe them. They must 
be just low enough to prevent chafing. If the threads are 
too high from the race plate the shuttle will have a ten- 
dency to fly out. 

The harness must also be set level at both ends, viz, one 
side must not be higher or lower than the other. The cams 
should be set to work full on the treadle balls and not 
to one side of them ; they should also be in contact with the 
balls for the whole revolution. Poor setting of the harness 
will cause faulty cloth, not only this but the cost of manu- 
facturing the cloth is increased, and even if passable cloth 
is made the expense of harness is a considerable item. If 



10 WiiAVIWU PJLAIN AJSD FANCY. 

the harness are set too close to the lay, the lay coming in con- 
tact with them will soon cut them. 

Timing of Shedding Cams. — Cams should be set level 
when crank is just past bottom center. There are several 
reasons for this timing. A better "cover" can be put on 
cloth because filling will be beaten into the cloth in an open 
shed. The filling can also be driven into the cloth easier. 
If cams are set later than this on heavy goods, selvages are 
apt to break. 

Relative Cams and Shuttles. — It is advisable to have rela- 
tive cams, that is to say, a cam that would be suitable for very 
coarse yarns would not be suitable for very fine yarns. The 
reason is obvious. Fine yams require only a small shed, 
coarse yarns a large shed. On fine yarns only small cops or 
bobbins are made in filling, so that only a small shuttle need 
be used, consequently only a small shed made. A good size 
of shuttle for filling, say, over 80 or 100 counts, is 1 1-2 
inches wide, 1 1-4 inches deep. On fine goods the principal 
point is quality, but on coarse goods the principal point is 
quantity ; therefore as large a shuttle should be used as pos- 
sible, consequently a large shed will be required. For ordi- 
nary coarse goods, a good size of shuttle would be 1 5-8 inches 
wide 1 3-8 inches deep. 

To Obtain Size of Shed. — Having a set of cams in the 
loom, to obtain the size of shed the cams will give. Example : 
Length of treadle from fulcrum to point of connection with 
front harness 22 inches. Distance from fulcrum to treadle 
ball 14 inches. Stroke of cam 3 inches. Distance of front 
harness from fell of cloth 7 1-2 inches. Front of shuttle 
to fell of cloth 3 1-2 inches. What will be the size of shed ? 
22x3-7-14 equals 4.714 inches, distance through which front 
harness moves. 4.714x3.5-=-7.5 equals 2.2 inches, size of 



PICKING. 11 

shed. A shuttle about 1 3-8 inches deep would be used for 
this size of shed. The difference between the actual figures 
and the size of shuttle used is accounted for in the loss with 
straps and connections, the loss amounting to about thrcx^- 
quarters of an inch. 

To Obtain Stroke of Cam That Witt Give a Required Size 
of Shed. — Example: Depth of shuttle 1 1-4 inches. Dis- 
tance from fell of cloth to front of shuttle 3 inches. Distance 
from fell of cloth to front harness 6 inches. Harness con- 
nected to treadle 22 inches from fulcrum. Distance o:^ 
treadle ball from fulcrum 14 inches. What is the stroke of 
cam required ? First allow three-quarters of an inch for loss. 
6x2-^3 equals 4 inches, distance moved by front harness. 
4xl4-f-22 equals 2.5 inches, stroke of cam required. 

PICKING. 

The second principal movement in weaving is "Picking." 
The proper adjustment of the picking mechanism is of the 
utmost importance if satisfactory results are to be obtained. 
It is this motion that causes so much power to be required to 
run a loom. The force of the blow required to drive the 
shuttle across the lay is known as the "power," and it is the 
reduction of this power that all fixers strive to attain. When 
too much power is used the result is that a greater amount of 
supplies are required, owing to picker sticks being broken, 
pickers and straps worn out, besides the extra trouble and 
attention that is necessary. 

Description of Picking Motion. — The picking motion on 
a cotton loom is generally what is known as the "cone" pick. 
This motion consists of the following parts: Eixed on the 
pick cam shaft in the loom is a pick cam. Above this cam a 
cone is supported from a picking shaft, this shaft being held 
to the side of the loom by two pick shaft boxes. On the oppo- 



1-2 



WJi.VVlKG PLAiiN' AND FANCY. 



site end of the shaft the picking arm is attached and extends 
downward. Passing around the bottom of the picking arm 
is a short lug straj) which is in turn connected by a sweep 
stick to a long lug strap tliat ])asses around the picker stick. 
This lug strap is held up on the picker stick by a stirrup strap. 
To the bottom end of the picker stick a heel strap is fixed, the 
end of the straji being connected to a spiral spring which 
draws the j)i('kcr slick back to its original position after 
picking. 




Fig. 2. 
Parallel Motion. — Fig. 2 is a sketch of the parallel mo- 
tion. A, picker stick. B, parallel. C, parallel tongue. D, 
picking stand. E, plug. This motion is one of the most im- 
portant ])arts of the picking motion. The object of this 



tiETTIiXG THE PICKKBB. 13 

motion is to enable the picker to travel parallel the full 
length of the stroke. The picking stand is level, but the 
parallel is cuned. The shape of parallel is obtained by 
using the picker as a center and the distance from picker to 
end of parallel as a radius. The parallel should work full 
and free on the picking stand, and should not work to one 
side, or the small projection on the picking stand will soon be 
worn awa.j and the result will be that the picker stick can- 
not be worked to the best ad\antage. The plug, which is 
inserted in the picking stand, must have the face perfectly 
true or this will cause tlie parallel to move to one side and 
cause shuttle to ily out. In picking, the tongue forms a 
tapering contact with i)lug. 

Setting the Pickers. — The picker should be fastened se- 
curely to the picker stick. To set the picker have the picker 
stick to the back end of box. Put on the picker to its right 
position and push shuttle full into the box so that an impres- 
sion will be made in face of ])icker. Cut a small hole where 
impression is made. If this hole is not made, the shuttle is 
apt to strike in different places, but by making the hole, shut- 
tle will strike true and be delivered better. Excellent results 
are obtained if the hole is cut from one-sixteenth to one- 
eighth of an inch higher. Under no circumstances must the 
hole be made lower or the shuttle will be continually flying 
out. Picker must not be too low when shuttle is being de- 
livered or sliuttle will certainly fly out. A piece of leathet 
inserted between parallel tongue and picker stick or between 
tongue and parallel will elevate the picker at delivery. If 
picker is too high when delivering shuttle, a piece of leather 
inserted underneath the parallel between picker stick and 
tongue will reduce the elevation. On some looms a set nut 
is used so that any change in elevation can very readily be 
made. 



14 WEAVIiNG— PLAIN AND FANCY. 

Picking Cams. — These cams should be constructed so as Vi 
give a gradual movement to the shuttle, that is, a gradual de- 
velopment of speed. The shuttle should begin slowly, and 
gradually increase in speed until full power is applied, which 
will be when shuttle is about leaving picker. These cams are 
shaped so that from about the back of the cam opposite the 
pick point there is a cut oif or a gradual tapering inwards 
almost to the pick point. Some picking cams are circular in 
construction and have a large pick point. These circular 
cams are generally keyed on the shaft, adjustment in timing 
of picking being made by moving the pick point backward or 
forward. When possible to do so, it is advisable to set the 
pick cams on a new loom, so that the end of pick point will 
be flush with the outer edge of the picking cone. After the 
loom has been in operation some time and the cone and cam 
wear, it is sometimes necessar\- to move the cam iu nearer the 
side of loom in order to obtain the power required. 

Timing of Picking Motion. — The timing of picking motion 
is to liave the shuttle begin to move when crank is on top cen- 
ter. The motion is set on this time because the shed will be 
open to receive the shuttle, also the shuttle will have time to 
get through the shed before shed begins to close. If the 
picking is set earlier than this, the shuttle will have to force 
its way into the shed, and this will chafe the yarn and break 
the selvages. Another reason is given under heading, "Hela- 
tion of timing of picking motion to beating up." 

Pic-king Cones. — As the name implies, these are cone shape 
and correspond to the bevel on the periphery of the picking 
cam. The cone is not fixed directly over the center of the 
picking cam, but a little behind the center, so that when the 
pick point comes in contact with the cone, the cone is raised 
easily and without any undue strain on the pick shaft boxes. 
If the cone should be set directly over the center of picking 



SETTING LUO STRAPS. 15 

cam a great strain would be put on the front pick shaft box. 
The picking motion should be set so that the cone will drop 
on the cam immediately after picking and travel around the 
cam until it is picked again. Sometimes this motion is set 
and the cone does not drop on the cam immediately after 
picking, but only comes in contact with it just previous to 
picking. This occiisionally causes a weak pick to be made, 
and should be remedied. When picking, the cone should be 
full into the pick point so as to receive the full benefit of the 
blow. Occasionally a pick point is not properly constructed, 
and when picking only one side of the pick point is in contact 
with the cone, so that much of the power is lost. The cono 
should also be set so as not to be too high or too low at the 
back, as this has some bearing on the fitting of picking 
cone to pick point. 

Setting Lug Straps. — These straps should be set to avoid 
extremes in power. To illustrate: To make a stronger pick 
the stirrup strap is lowered on picker stick or the picking an/i 
is lowered. To make a weaker pick the stirrup strap is raised 
on picker stick or the picking arm is raised. The desired re- 
sult is obtained by manipulating the picking arm and stirrup 
strap, but if tlie picking arm is set at its lowest, which is the 
strongest point, and tbe stirrup strap at its highest, which is 
the weakest point, the best results would not be obtained. 
There would be extra power on the picking arm, but it would 
be lost on account of the stirrup strap being high on the 
picker stick. This fixing would also cause trouble to the 
fixer as the screw that holds the stirrup strap would be con- 
tinually coming out. It is therefore better, when possible 
to do so, to have the lug straps as near level as possible to 
conform to practical results. This will enable a change to be 
easily made for a stronger or weaker pick. The picking cam 
should be set to begin picking, so that there will not be too 



16 WEAVING— PLAIN AND FANCY. 

much play between the lug strap and picker stick, as this 
causes lost motion and weak picks. 

letting Ficker Stick. — There are two methods of setting 
picker stick, i'irst, to have stick return to back end of box 
after picking. Second, to have the stick remain three or four 
inches in the box from the back, after picking. To fix the 
picker stick for first method, have the heel strap at bottom of 
picker stick about level with the spiral spring connected with 
heel strap. To fix picker stick for second method, have the 
heel strap at bottom of picker stick, about one inch higher 
than the connection of heel strap with spring; or another 
way of fixing for this method is to have the heel strap be- 
tween the parallel tongue and picker stick. Both these 
methods have their adherents. In the second method, the 
picker stick being three or four inches in the box will act as 
a cheek on the shuttle. 

Bi?iders or Su^ells. — The purpose of the binder is to hold 
the shuttle firm in shuttle box, also to act as a check on the 
shuttle as it is entering the box. There are practically two 
kinds — one made from mailable iron, the other from wood. 
The first can be bent to any shape required, but the best 
shape is to have the binder gradually tapered so as to grip 
the shuttle about half way. This shape will also gi-adually 
check the shuttle as it is entering the box. The wood binder 
has generally a shoulder on the end nearest the entrance to 
the box. If this shoulder is too pronounced the shuttle Avill 
receive a sudden check. The sudden striking of the shuttle 
on the binder causes the protector finger that presses against 
the back of the binder to jump, and the binder, being sud- 
denly released, the shuttle shoots into the box. To overcome 
this the box must be kept tight or a good shuttle check used. 
Another disadvantage of this kind of binder is when using 
short shuttle boxes. If a weak pick should be made the shuttle 



BEATING UP. 



17 



would enter the box sufficiently to press out the binder and 
clear the dagger from the frog. The opposite end of the 
shuttle would probably be extended in the shed with the re- 
sult that when the lay revolves a smash would be made. 

BEATING UP. 

The third principal movement in weaving is "beating up 
the filling." This is an eccentric movement, as will be noticed 
on reference to Fig. 3. 




Fig. 3. 

This figure illustrates the lap cap, G; reed, H; lay sole, 
K ; lay sword, L ; with connecting pin B, which connects the 
. 2 



18 WEAVIAG PLAIN AND FANCY. 

crank arm with the lay, in different positions, while the crank 
is making one revolution. With lay sword at A B, the crank 
is on front center. A C, position of lay when crank is at C.A 
D, position of lay when crank is at D.A E, position of lay 
when crank is at E.A. F, position of lay when crank is at 
back center. From this it will be seen that the front half 
of the stroke is made in less time than tlie back half, or, in 
other words, the lay moves quicker in traveling from B to 
D and back again to B than it does in traveling from D to F 
and back again to D. A quick beat-up is therefore given to 
the filling. 

Relation of Tinmig of Picking Motion to Beating Up. — 
As stated in "Picking" the timing of picking motion is to 
have shuttle begin to move when crank is on top center. It 
will be noticed in Fig. 3 that when crank is at this point the 
lay is traveling at its highest speed. As the crank moves to- 
wards the back center the speed of lay is considerably re- 
duced. The shuttle is therefore being delivered when lay is 
at its highest speed, but the speed of shuttle decreases before 
it passes clear tlirough the shed. The speed of the lay is also 
decreased and this gives the shuttle time to get clear through 
the shed and into the opposite box. It is not advisable to set 
tlie picking motion earlier than top center for the following 
reason: If the shuttle is picked from box before crank 
reaches top center tlie lay will not have attained its highest 
speed, and as the shuttle is passing across the lay there will 
be a tendency for the lay to leave the shuttle behind. This 
-will cause the shuttle to have ridges or furrows on the back 
and will also cause it to rattle in the box. 



CHAPTER II. 

ADDITIONAL MOTIONS AND PARTS. 

Auxiliary iShaft. — Looms that are coustructed to weave 
plain goods have the shedding cams on the pieii cam shaft. 
Other looms are constructed so as not only to weave plain 
goods but also twills and sateens. On these looms the shed- 
ding earns are placed on an auxiliary shaft so that the cams 
can be changed for the different class of goods that have to 
be made. This shaft is run at different speeds according to 
the cams being used. A hxed gear is set on the auxiliary 
shaft, but on the pick cam shaft are a set of gears, each gear 
when meshed into the gear on auxiliary shaft will alter the 
speed of this shaft. 

Example. — ^Plain cloth to be made. Gear on auxiliary 
shaft 60 teeth. The gear on pick cam shaft will require to 
be the same size as gear on auxiliary shaft since auxiliary 
shaft has to travel the same speed as pick cam shaft, viz : one 
revolution of auxiliary shaft to two revolutions of crank 
shaft. AVhen twill or sateen cams are put on auxiliary shaft 
tlie speed of that shaft will have to be reduced in proportion 
to the number of cams on shaft. This is done by changing 
the gear on pick cam shaft. If a five harness twill or sateen 
has to be made the speed of auxiliai*y shaft will have to be 
reduced so that five picks can be inserted in the cloth for one 
revolution of auxiliary, or, in other words, the crank shaft 
will make five revolutions to one of auxiliary shaft. To as- 
certain gear required to drive auxiliary shaft use the follow- 
ing rule: (a) Multiply gear on end of pick cam shaft by 
gear on auxiliary shaft, (b) Multiply gear on end of crank 
shaft by picks required in one revolution of auxiliary shaft. 

Example. — A loom has to be changed over from plain 



20 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY, 

cloth to five harness twill. Gears on loom as follows: On 
end of crank shaft, 35 teeth; one end of pick cam shaft, 70 
teeth; on auxiliary shaft, 60 teeth. What size gear will be 
required? 70x60^-35x5 equals 24-tooth gear. By substi- 
tuting in rule the gear which is meshed into gear on auxiliary 
shaft the number of picks in one revolution of auxiliary shaft 
can be found. 

Example. — Gear on end of crank shaft, 35 teeth; on end of 
pick cam shaft, 70 teeth ; on pick cam shaft driving gear on- 
auxiliary shaft, 30 teeth ; on auxiliary shaft, 60 teeth. How 
many picks in one revolution of auxiliary shaft? 70x60-^- 
35x30 equals four picks. A four-harness twill can be made 
with this gearing. 

Changes Required. — When changing over from plain goods- 
to twills or sateens several changes have to be made. These 
are as follows: jSTew cams; gear to drive auxiliary shaft; 
additional jack sticks and straps; additional treadles; new 
harness rollers. If a vibrating whip roll had been used for- 
the plain goods it would be advisable to reduce the leverage 
for the following reason: The vibrating whip roll is used 
to relieve the strain on the yarn when the harness are open,, 
for at this point the greatest strain is on the yarn. This vi- 
brating whip roll is therefore more desirable for plain goods 
than for twills or sateens, because one-half the yarn in plain 
cloth is raised and the other half lowered at the same time. 
In twills and sateens some harness are changing while others 
are stationary so that good results are obtained by reducing 
the vibration. 

Tiuiiiif/ of Twill or Sateen Cams. — When two harness 
shafts in t^vill or sateen are being changed — one raised the 
other lowered — that is, at the time they are crossing each 
other, have the crank shaft just past bottom center. The 
timing of this motion can often very easily be changed as an 



TAPE SELVAGE. 21 

intermediate or carrier gear is used to transmit motion from 
the gear on pick cam shaft to gear on auxiliary shaft. By 
moving this carrier gear out of position the cams can be set 
at any desired point in relation to crank shaft. 

Tape Selvage. — A tape selvage is often used on twills and 
sateens. This is to obtain a good flat selvage. When the 
selvage threads are drawn through the same harness shafts 
as the sateen it is almost an impossibility to get a good selvage, 
as the threads will roll or curl under. This is owing to the 
fact that the outside thread is not caught by the filling on 
every pick. In the tape selvage two picks are put in a shed 
before a change is made. The driving gear for this motion 
is fixed on the pick cam shaft and is meshed into another 
gear, which has twice as many teeth in it. This gear is 
fixed on a small shaft, which is supported by two brackets. 
On each end of the shaft is a set of small plain cams, which 
operate the heddles for tape selvage. One revolution of the 
tape motion cam shaft equals four picks, two picks for each 
cam. This is calculated the same as for auxiliary shaft. 
As this motion enables two picks to be put in before a change 
is made, the cams must be set so that when one side is on 
first pick the other is on second pick ; in other words, the 
cams must be set to change the selvage heddles alternately 
on each side. 

Protectors. — There are two kinds of protectors, viz, side 
protector and center j)rotector. When binders are at back of 
shuttle box a side protector is used, but when at front of shut- 
tle liox a center protector is used. A protector is necessary 
on every loom because it prevents smashes. The protector is 
worked from binder in shuttle box. When shuttle is in box, 
the binder is forced out, which in turn forces out the protector 
finger. On side protector the protector dagger is raised and 
passes over the frog and loom continues to run. If shuttle 



22 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

should not get in the box the protector dagger would not be 
raised and would consequently strike the frog, which would 
immediately stop the loom. Two frogs are generally used, 
the frog on shipper handle side has a knock off finger bolted 
to it, which is directly behind the shipper handle when loom 
is running, and when the dagger strikes the frog the shipper 
handle is immediately forced out of position, and at the 
same time the brake, which is connected to the frog, is 
pulled against the tight pulley and loom is stopped. The 
frog on opposite side of loom is kno^vn as the "dead" or 
"'blind" frog, and prevents the lay from swinging forward 
at that side, also to equalize the strain on the loom. The 
daggers are set so that both will strike the frogs at the same 
time ; if anything, the live frog should be just a trifle ahead 
of the other. 

A center protector has only one dagger, which is in center 
of protector rod. The frog or receiver is a long iron, bolted 
loosely under the breast beam, one end being behind the ship- 
per handle, the other end directly opposite the dagger. When 
shuttle is in box the dagger passes under receiver. If shuttle 
should fail to get in box, the dagger would strike the receiver 
and shipper handle would immediately be forced out of posi- 
tion and loom stopped. To set the protector, have the receiver 
in position it will be when loom is running. Set dagger in 
groove in the receiver. Set the protector fingers against 
binders. In setting, care must be taken not to have any lost 
motion between finger and binder, also be sure that the dag- 
ger strikes full in slot in the receiver. 

Filling Stop Motion. — The filling stop motion is for the 
purpose of stopping the loom when the filling runs out or is 
broken. This motion consists of an elbow lever that works 
on a stud fixed to the side of the loom. One end of the elbow 
lever extends over the pick cam shaft, the opposite end is at 



SETTING FILLING FORK. 23 

right angles, and extends upwards under the filling fork. A 
cam fixed on the pick cam shaft gives a forward and back- 
ward movement to the elbow lever. The filling fork slide 
works in a stand on the breast beam. A lever is fulcrumed 
on the extreme end of the shipper handle casting; this lever 
is behind the shipper handle, one end fitting either in the fill- 
ing fork slide or behind the slide. When the loom is run- 
ning, the filling is laid directly in front of a grate that is 
in line with the reed and back of shuttle box. As the lay 
comes forward the filling will raise fork out of the way of 
elbow lever and loom will continue to run. When the filling 
is broken, the fork passes through the grate, and the elbow 
lever, in moving outwards, comes in contact with the hook on 
end of fork. This forces back the filling fork slide and at 
the same time forces back the shipper handle and loom is 
stopped. 

Setting Fork. — In setting the fork, care must be taken 
that the prongs of the fork pass clear into or through the 
grat«, and must not come in contact whatever with the grate, 
but must work clear, so that when filling breaks the end of 
fork will remain over the elbow lever. When the fork is 
raised, the bottom of the prongs must work free in the slot in 
lay sole. Fork must not be set too far through the grate ; it 
is only necessary to pass just through. This will be regulated 
by the size of filling used. 

Shape of Fork. — The prongs on the fork can be made any 
desired shape. It is advisable, however, not to have the bot- 
tom of the prongs protruding or standing out too far from 
the bend, as they will have a tendency to catch the filling. 
One of the best shapes is to have them almost straight from 
the bend to the end of prongs, being bent in somewhat near 
the bottom end, or, in other words, slightly concave. With 
this shape there is less liability of the filling catching on the 



24: WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

ends of prongs, also the prongs do not need to pass as far 
through the grate. Care must be taken not to have the 
prongs toO' short, and all must be the same shape. Very fine 
filling only requires a light fork, but a heavy filling requires 
a heavy fork. 

Timing of Filling Stop Motion. — Have shuttle in box at 
stop motion side with crank on front center or a little beyond. 
Push stop motion slide as far forward as it will go. At this 
point the stop motion cam should be set so that the elbow lever 
will be just passing under the hook on fork. 

Thin Place Preventor. — On all cotton looms there is a 
thin j^lace preventor. These are differently constructed, but 
the object is the same on all, viz, to raise the catch on take-up 
gears when filling breaks, which prevents the gears from 
di-awing down the cloth for those picks where no tilling is in- 
serted. If this motion is not set right the gears will take up 
without any filling being inserted in the cloth, and when the 
loom is started a thin place results. It is well to notice if 
any of the fingers have slipped ; if so, they will have to be put 
back to their right position. 

Take Up Motion. — This motion consists of a train of gears 
and a roller, around which the cloth passes. The roller is 
generally covered witli perforated tin and draws down the 
cloth as the picks are being inserted. The perforations pre- 
vent the cloth from slipping. Each loom maker has a special 
train of gears. If the ratchet gear is driven from the pick 
cam shaft each tooth in the change gear represents two picks. 
To put any number of picks per inch in the cloth the change 
gear Avill have half the number of teeth. If the ratchet gear 
is driven from the lay sword each tooth in the change gear 
represents one pick, so that to put any specified number of 
picks per inch in the cloth that number of change gear would 



LET OFF MOTION. 25 

be used. If the change gear is meshed directly into the gear 
on take up roller the number of teeth in change gear does not 
represent the number of picks per inch put in cloth, and cal- 
culation has to be made for same. 

To Obtain Change Gear for a Certain Number of Picks. — 
Multiply the number of teeth in take up ratchet by number of 
teetli in talvo up roller gear, and by 2 for a dividend. Multi- 
ply circumference of take up roller in inches by picks re- 
quired per inch for a divisor. Divide dividend by divisor 
and the quotient will be number of teeth in pick gear. 

Example. — What change gear will be required to put in 
cloth 64 picks per inch? Ratchet gear 110 teeth. Take up 
roller gear 68 teeth. Circumference of take up roller 12^ 
inches. 

110x68x2 ^r- 64x12.25 = 19 teeth in change gear. 

Let Off Motion.- — There are two kinds of let off motions in 
general use, friction let off and gear let ofl:". The commonest 
friction let off is a rope passed around the drum on the beam 
head and attached to a weight lever under the beam. Suffi- 
cient weight is required on the lever to keep the yarn tight. 
As the beam is reduced in size some of the weight is taken off. 
It is customary in some mills to use a chain instead of a 
rope. This chain gives very good results and is not effected 
by the weather. In damp weather when rope is used it be- 
comes sticky and the yarn is not let off even ; but if this let off 
is attended to, good results can be obtained. With the gear 
let off the yarn is released regularly. This motion is some- 
what complicated, but good results are obtained from it. The 
motion consists of the following parts: A clutch lever con- 
nects a spring rod to the whip roll. On the spring rod are 
two springs, a long one and a short one. An upright shaft 
works on a stud fixed to the side of the loom. The top of 
the shaft is on the short end of the spring rod and is held 



26 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

between the spring and a collar. To the bottom of the shaft 
is fixed a round iron rod that is connected to the pawl lever. 
A small pawl is fixed on the end of the pawl lever to turn the 
ratchet. This pawl is kept in contact with the ratchet by a 
small spring. Connected to the lay sword is another rod, the 
opposite end working free on the pawl lever rod. This rod 
comes in contact with a collar set screwed on the pawl lever 
rod and turns the ratchet gear, thereby letting off yarn. 

Setting the Motion. — Have the whip roll a little higher 
than the harness eyes, with clutch lever as near perpendicular 
as possibla The large spring on spring rod should have 
sufficient pressure on it to keep the yarn tight. The pressure 
on this spring will be detemiined by the amount of yarn on 
beam. The small spring should not be close or tight. When 
the harness are level the upright shaft should be perpendicu- 
lar and the pawl lever should be on the outside of the ratchet. 
When the harness are opening there is a slight forward move- 
ment of the upright shaft. This should bring the collar on 
pawl lever rod almost in contact with the end of rod con- 
nected to lay sword, and at the same time the pawl will have 
moved over the required teeth in the ratchet. In beating up, 
the pawl lever rod will be pulled forward and the ratchet 
will be turned. When the reed is about one inch from the 
fell of the cloth have the collar on pawl lever rod in contact 
with the rod connected to lay sword. Every part of the mo- 
tion must work freely ; there must be no binding whatever. 

Temples. — Temples are for the purpose of keeping the fell 
of the cloth as wide as the yarn in the reed. If temples were 
not used the selvages would not weave. The most vital part 
of the temple is the roll. TheDutcher Temple Co. manufacture 
rolls for any kind of work, fine or coarse, in different widths 
to suit the cloth being made. The rolls should always work 
free; if they do not the teeth will make small holes in the 



LEASE RODS. 27 

sides of tlie cloth. Sometimes it is necessai-y to take out the 
rolls to clean them. Care is required when replacing, so 
that the rolls will not be turned. On many of these rolls 
there is only one ^vay to fit them in the temple so that it is an 
impossibility to get tliem in wrong. This is a decided im- 
provement, for when these rolls aie turned, the cloth is not 
held securely in the temples, the result is that the selvages 
are continually breaking out. In many cases they will not 
work at all as the cloth slips out of the temple. Another 
form of temple is the ring temple. This temple is divided 
into small sections ; each section can be taken out separately. 
This is one of the best temples for strong, heavy work. 

Setting the Temples. — ^The temples should be fixed securely 
to the breast beam. The trough of the temple should be just 
above the race plate. The selvage of the clotli should be full 
into the temple. "When the reed is between one-eighth to one- 
quarter of an inch from fell of cloth the heel of temple should 
be in contact with lay. 

Lease Bods. — These rods are for the purpose of separating 
the yarn and obtaining, as the name indicates, a "lease." 
This using of lease rods enables the weaver to readily find the 
place if a thread should be broken; the threads can also be 
kept straight, which is of great service, especially when col- 
ored yams are used. (In England and on the Continent 
these rods are often called "shed" rods.) A clearer "shed" 
is obtained by the use of them ; they also keep the threads 
from becoming tangled. A soft wood, with surface insuffi- 
ciently protected, should not be used ; as the continual draw- 
ing of the threads over the rods soon cuts little ridges or fur- 
rows in them. This is a source of constant trouble and ex- 
pense, as the threads getting in the ridges are continually 
breaking out, especially on fine yarns. Such rods have then 



28 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

to be sand-papered frequently, so as to make and keep them 
smooth. To overcome this difficulty, a lease rod made from 
either basswood or white birch, thoroughly seasoned and kiln- 
dried, then enameled with a special enamel designed and 
made for this purpose, and the enamel carbonized and thor- 
oughly baked on the rods for several successive coats under 
high heat for hours, produces a hard, glazed surface, over 
which the thread or yarn runs as smoothly as over glass ; — so 
made they wear for many years. This makes an exception- 
ally good lease rod and is known as the Standard "Peerless" 
enameled lease rod, made by the American Enamel Com- 
pany, Providence, R. I. 

Lease rods are of different sizes and shapes. One is round 
and the otlier oval. The largest rod, which is the round one, 
is always inserted in the yarn first and is the back rod. The 
back harness is raised and the front lowered when this rod is 
inserted. When the front or oval rod is inserted the front 
harness is raised and the back harness lowered. The reason 
for this is as follows : When the back harness is lowered and 
tlie front harness raised, the "shed" opens at a point between 
the rods. The added thickness of the back rod is sufficient 
to put the necessary strain on the yarn to make a clear "shed." 
When the front harness is lowered and the back harness 
raised, the shed is formed at the front rod. The back har- 
ness has to travel a greater distance than the front harness to 
make the same size of shed because it is farther away from 
fell of cloth, therefore, more tension is required on the 
threads dra'wn through that harness so as to make a clear 
^'shed." This additional tension is obtained by having the 
threads under the front lease rod, which is sufficient to equal- 
ize the distance between the harness and fell of cloth. A 
small or oval rod is therefore necessary for front rod, as the 
larger the rod the farther the yarn has to bend. 



SHUTTLES. 29 

On many dobby cloths lease rods are not used, as previously 
stated, but what is known as "clamp" rods are used. These 
clamp rods are similar to ordinary front lease rods, or they 
can be square. They are not inserted between the warp 
threads as are lease rods, but are clamped or held together 
with the warp threads passing- between them at a point about 
six or eight inches behind the harness shafts. This enables 
a clear shed to be made. 

Shuttles. — On single box work the usual custom is to have 
two shuttles to one loom, so that when one is at work the other 
is threaded up ready for use. Both shuttles should be of the 
same weight and size, so that when the power and shuttle box 
is set for one shuttle it will also be right for the other. In 
placing the shuttle in loom, the spindle hinge end is often 
put towards loom pulley. The eyelet is always on front of 
shuttle in loom. Shuttles can be right-hand or left-hand. 
Opinions differ as to what constitute the hand of a shuttle. 
The most accepted custom is to have the shuttle eyelet farth- 
est from the body, and if eyelet is on right-hand side it is a 
right-hand shuttle, and vice-versa. Often black marks are 
made in the cloth a certain distance from the selvage. This 
is generally caused by tlie side of the shuttle being black or 
the shuttle box not being clean. The place where filling is 
being marked can be found by mea,suring distance from selv- 
age to marks in cloth, and then using this measure from 
selvage to box. These marks are called "shuttle marks," as 
it is generally the shuttle that makes tliem. 

Cover on Cloth. — Cover on cloth is a soft, do^vny surface, 
which is distinctly noticeable in a well made plain cotton cloth. 
When a cloth has a good cover on it, it will at once be seen, 
and there is also a soft feel to the cloth. The difference be- 
tween a covered cloth and one which is generally known as 
"bare" or "reedy" is very distinguishable. A reedy cloth is 



30 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

entirely void of cover. The threads are drawn two in a 
dent, and these two threads rim together, causing the reed 
marks to be distinctly visible. For this reason reedy cloth is 
often called "two-ey." 

The warp line, viz, the line formed by the warp from Avhip 
roll through harness and reed to cloth on breast beam, has 
considerable influence in forming either reedy or covered 
cloth. When the harness are level, if the wai-p line forms 
a straight line there will be an equal tension on the threads, 
both top and bottom, when the harness are opened. Tliis will 
cause the two threads in each dent to run together and reedy 
cloth will be the result. If the warp line is below a straight 
line at the harness when they are level, a certain amount of 
cover will be put on face of cloth. With this setting, when 
the harness are open the lower half of tlie warp will be tight 
while the upper half will be comparatively slack. When the 
filling is beaten up into the cloth it is forced more on the 
face and the slack threads are spread in between the tight 
threads. The filling, being soft twisted, Avill give the soft 
feel to the cloth. Cover on cloth can be increased by raising 
whip roll or breast beam. Placing a strip of wood on breast 
beam will answer the purpose. It is necessary to have the 
sliedding cams set early, so that the filling can be beaten up 
in an open shed. A good setting for cams is to have them 
level when crank is just past bottom center. 



CHAPTER III. 

FIXING POINTS. 

Under this head will be given the different causes of the 
loom being out of order and remedies for same. 

LOOM BANGING OR SLAMMING OFF. 

This is what a fixer is called for in quite a number of cases. 
There are quite a number of causes for this, which will be 
enumerated. 

Change of Atmosphere. — If there has been a sudden change 
from dry to damp weather the boxes and shuttles will become 
sticky. The shuttle will not fit right in the box, and the re- 
sult will be that the loom will bang off. To remedy: take 
waste and wipe shuttles and boxes thoroughly dry. If this 
does not remedy take a piece of fine sand-paper and rub the 
shuttle. It is advisable to rub both the shuttles the same so 
as to keep them the same width and weight. A very small 
drop of oil put on the swell with the finger, after cleaning 
with waste, will often remedy. 

Rehoimding Shuttles. — First, caused by pick being too 
strong. Second, loose box. Third, finger on protector rod 
having slipped. These can be remedied as follows : First. It 
can be often seen from which side of the loom the pick is too 
strong, as the shuttle often stops on that side of the loom with 
strong pick. The reason for this is, the shuttle having re- 
bounded in opposite box, on the next pick a Aveak pick is made 
because of the loss of the initial movement in picking, and 
the shuttle will not get into the box and loom bangs. Second. 
If box is too loose, the swell or guide will have to be tightened 
to hold the shuttle firm in box. Third. If finger on pro- 
tector rod has slipped, it will have to be put back in right 
position and tightened securely. In fixing the finger in its 



32 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

right position care must be talven that the dagger will clear 
the frog ; also that the dagger will strike frog full in the slot. 

Cracked or Part Broken Lug Strap. — Do not try to fix up 
a lug strap that is part broken or cracked, but replace with a 
new one. 

Cracked Picker Stick. — It is not necessary that the picker 
stick be actually split; if it is cracked a weak pick is likely 
to result, and it is best to replace with a new one immediately. 

Worn Pick Point. — If the point is badly worn, the best 
remedy is to rejilace with new one. 

Bolt Loose that Fixes Stick to Shoe. — This makes a weak 
pick, owing to lost motion. Kemedy is to tighten up the bolt. 

Heel Spring too Tight. — The power that ought to be used 
to drive the shuttle across the lay is spent in pulling against 
tlie spring. 

Lost Motion in Cone. — 'This is caused by neglecting to oil 
the cone, with the result that the cone wears and becomes 
loose on its stud and a weak pick often results. 

Shedding Cams too Early. — If shedding cams are set too 
early, the shed will be closing before the shuttle gets full 
across the lay, with the result that the shed is often closed on 
the back end of the shuttle and the shuttle is tilted as it en- 
ters the box. The result is that the shuttle does not get full 
into the box and the loom bangs oif. This also causes the 
shuttle to be chipped, and the tip is also often blunted. 

Shedding Cams too Late. — If shedding cams are set too 
late, the shuttle will enter the shed before \t is full open, and 
will be retarded in its movement and the loom often bangs off. 

Loom Gears Worn. — This causes the loom to bang off occa- 
sionally. The teeth of the gears become worn just where the 



FIXING rOINTS. 33 

picking takes place and this causes lost motion. To remedy 
this the gears are moved forward. The shedding and picking 
motions will also require to be put on right time when this 
is done. 

Belt Slipping. — A slipping belt often causes loom to bang. 
The belt should be cleaned and a good belt dressing applied. 

LOOM STOPPING. 

The essential difference between loom banging and loom 
stopping is that in loom banging the loom stops with a jar, 
while in loom stopping the shipper handle is moved out of 
the stand and the loom stops easily. Some of the causes of 
loom banging will also cause loom to stop. 

Rebounding Shuttle. — A shuttle rebounding will cause loose 
filling. This will not raise the fork and the loom is stopped. 

Filling Catching on Fori-. — A rebounding shuttle will also 
cause this. Filling sliding up and down on fork when fork 
is through grate. To remedy this two or three notches are 
made in the prongs just about where the filling should be held. 
These notches must not be sharp or they will cut the filling. 
The best shape of fork has been referred to in previous 
chapter. 

Not Sufficient Friction on Filling in Shuttle. — If there is 
not sufficient friction on filling in shuttle, the filling will be 
slack, and will not raise the fork. A piece of flannel or felt 
inserted near the eyelet in shuttle will generally overcome 
this defect. On some shuttles there are three eyelets, and if 
the filling is put through these, slack filling will be prevented. 

Fork Too Far Through the Grate. — This will cause the 
fork to be lifted too high, and the result is that after drop- 
ping, the fork rebounds and the hook on the fork is caught 
3 



34 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

by the elbow lever aud the loom is stopped. This occasion- 
ally causes the filling to become slack and catch on the fork. 
Elbow Lever Too High. — Occasionally the elbow lever is 
set too high. This causes the fork to rest on the lever and 
causes a rebound, when it is then caught by the lever on its 
outward movement and the loom is stopped. 

Stop Motion Cam Too Early. — If the cam is set too early 
the elbow lever comes in contact with the hook on the fork 
before the fork has been raised, and loom is stopped. 

Stop Motion Cam Too Late. — If the cam is set too late the 
fork will have been raised and have dropped back again in 
time to be caught by the elbow lever and loom is stepped. 

Stand for Shipper Handle Worn. — If the shipper handle 
stand is worn it will have to be filed so that the shipper 
handle will fit securely in it. 

Shipper Handle Spring Weak. — There is a half turn in 
some shipper handles and this sometimes becomes weak and 
the shipper handle slips out of the stand. By strengthening 
tlie spring in handle this will be overcome. 

Occasional Rubbing of Dagger Against Frog or Receiver. — 
When the lay comes forward to beat up the filling the dag- 
ofer should make a full clearance of the receiver. Sometimes 
the dagger rubs against the receiver, not enough to make the 
loom bang off, but enough to gradually push off the shipper 
handle. This can easily be seen by looking at the end of the 
ilagger, which will be bevelled and polished. To remedy 
this the dagger will have to be reset. In resetting the dag- 
ger have receiver in the position it will be when loom is run- 
ning, bring lay forward and have dagger full in receiver. 
The fingers on dagger shaft should be set against the swells. 
When shuttle is in box the end of swell should be clear from 
l>ox, about one-half to throe-quarters of an inch. In setting 



laxiXG POINTS. 35 

tlie dagger, if the receiver is not in the position it will be 
when loom is running, hut is back from thctt position, the 
daffffer will strike too hie'h and will cause a smash. 



'&&^ 



SHUTTLE FLYING OUT. 

Overfaced Reed. — In an overfaced reed the ends of the 
reed are not level with the back of the box, and this causes 
the shuttle tip to be turned outwards. 

Undcrfaced: Reed.—Th\?, will also throw out the shuttle. 
The back of the shuttle will be chipped as it is entering the 
box. This also causes a crooked running shuttle. A steel 
straight edge should be used to ascertain if the reed is in 
line \vith the back of the box. 

Shed Too Late. — If the shed is too late there is not suffi- 
cient space for shuttle to enter and the shuttle flies out. 

Shed Too Early. — This also causes shuttle to fly out. The 
shed closing on shuttle before entering the box will throw 
shuttle out. 

Picker Too Low. — If the picker is too low at the back end 
of the box, also when shuttle is being delivered, the shuttle 
will almost certainly fly out. It is advisable to have the hole 
in picker where shuttle strikes, a trifle higher than tip of 
shuttle when shuttle is in box. The shuttle will run with 
tip of shuttle in center of hole in picker with the shuttle 
]-)orfectly level on race iron, but better results are possibly 
obtained by having the hole elevated from one-sixteenth to 
one-eighth of an inch. Under no circumstances must the 
hole be too low. If the picker is too low when delivering the 
shuttle the outer end of shuttle is tilted and shuttle will 
strike the mouthpiece of opposite box or fly out. To remedy 
this, put a piece of leather between the picker stick and 
pjirallel tongue, which will elevate the picker at the end of 



36 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

stroke when shuttle is being delivered from box. Some of 
the causes of loom banging will also cause shuttle to fly out^ 
especially rebounding shuttle. 

UNEVEN CLOTH. 

Rope on Friction Let Off Binding. — The rope on friction 
let off often binds in damp weather, as it becomes sticky, ow- 
ing tO' dampness, and the yarn is not let off evenly. The rope 
should be taken oif and thoroughly cleaned, then a little 
French chalk or powdered black lead sprinkled on the rope 
and the beam will work easy. Powdered black lead is the 
most expensive, but is the best, as only a little need be used 
at a time. Tallow is sometimes used, but this does not give 
as good results as either French chalk or powdered black 
lead. The ropes soon become sticky again, owing to dust 
and flyings accumulating on them. Oil is sometimes dropped 
on the rope by the weaver; this will also cause dust and lint 
to accumulate and rope will have to be cleaned. 

Take Up Gears Too Tight. — If the take up gears are too 
tight they will lock and uneven cloth will result. 

Small Pinion Gear Too Veep in Beam Head. — This will 
cause the yarn to be let off unevenly, and if there should 
be any small chips of iron betw^een the teeth on beam head 
this will cause the beam to jump. The beam heads should 
be examined and all small chips taken out. 

Weal- Spring BeJiind Lei Off Pawl. — If the small spring 
behind the pawl is w'eak, the pawl will slip over some teeth 
occasionally, causing yarn to be let off unevenly. It is ad- 
visable to look ont for this, for if the spring should break the 
varn will not be let off at all and a smash will result. 

Harness Straps Lapping Under. — If the harness straps 



laXING POINTS. 37 

lap under each other a jerky motion is given to the harness, 
and this causes streaks in the cloth, especially on fine work. 

BAD SELVAGES. 

Many times cloth is rejected on account of bad selvages, 
even though the body of cloth is perfect. There are quite a 
number of causes for this. 

Not Sufficient Friction on FiUijig in Shuttle. — If there 
is not suflicient friction on filling in shuttle it is likely to curl 
up on selvage. 

Filling Catching on Picker. — If the picker is worn and 
has rough places on it the filling will catch, and this will 
prevent the filling from going in the cloth, and the loose end 
will hang outside the selvage. 

Filling Catching on Lay Sole. — When the shuttle is leaving 
the box there is always a certain amount of loose filling. 
This loose filling sometimes gets in front of the lay sole and 
is caught there. This is generally seen in narrow cloths 
where there is plenty of space left between the sides of cloth 
and the boxes. This can often be overcome by tacking a 
piece of smooth leather to the front of the lay sole between 
the sides of cloth and the boxes. 

Harness Too Loiu on One Side. — This will also cause a poor 
■selvage, as the yarn will sag at that side and the filling will 
cling to it. 

Filling Fork Prongs Too Short. — If the prongs of the fork 
are too short the filling will catch on them, and when this fill- 
ing breaks it will hang loose at the side of cloth or will be 
pulled in the cloth. Often when filling catches on fork, the 
loom is stopped ; in other cases the loom continues to run 
after filling in shuttle is broken. 



38 WEAVIJNG PLAIN AND FANCY. 

Too Much Friction on Filling in Shuttle. — If there is too 
much friction on filling in shuttle the selvage will be pulled 
in and this will cause a poor looking cloth. This will also 
have a tendency to make small holes in the cloth at selvages 
when passing through the temple. The teeth in the temple 
roll engaging in the cloth to keep it the required width will 
cut the filling where selvage is pulled in. This is especially 
noticeable on fine goods. 

CUTTING FILLING. 

Groove in Shuttle Not Deep Enough. — When the shuttle 
is in shuttle box the filling lies in the groove of the shuttle. 
If the face of the shuttle has been worn by constant wear and 
the groove is not deep enough the filling is likely to be cut. 
The groove on the end of shuttle beyond the eyelet must not 
be allowed to wear off, as this is a source of cutting filling 
especially on fine work. 

Eyelet in Shuttle Sharp. — This is caused by face of shuttle 
being worn and with shuttle striking the mouthpiece of the 
box as it is entering box. 

Shuttle Ilising in Box. — When using an iron swell, the 
swell can be bent over a trifle, so that the shuttle will come in 
contact with top of the swell first, and this will prevent shuttle 
from rising. 

Temple Too Loiv.—^Ji the trough of the temple is too low, 
tlie filling which often gets under the temple will be cut by 
temple rubbing against race-plate. 

Shuttle Spindle Sharp. — When using cop filling it is some- 
times necessary to open out the spindle to prevent the filling 
from breaking. In doing this the end of the spindle be- 
comes sharp, and when the cop is put on spindle the filling 
is cut inside the cop. 



P'lXING POINTS. 39 

FILLING BREAKING. 

Pick Too Strong. — If the pick is too strong, the shuttle 
will strike too hard in the box and filling will be broken. 

Boxes Too Loose. — ^If the boxes are too loose the shuttle will 
not be checked and will strike hard against the picker and fill- 
ing will be broken. 

Shuttle Spindle Too Small for Cop. — If the shuttle spindle 
is very much too small for cop it will have to be replaced with 
a new one. A spindle can often be made large enough to hold 
a cop by opening it, but care is required so that the spindle 
will not cut the filling. 



CHAPTER IV. 

GINGHAM LOOMS. 

When fabrics have to be produced in which there are 
various colored threads in the filling, drop-box looms have to 
be used. These looms are usually constructed with either 
two, four or six shuttle boxes at one end of the lay and one 
shuttle box at the other end. They are also made with either 
two or four boxes at each end of the lay. When built in 
the former manner an even number of picks of any given 
color of filling must be inserted in the cloth, as the shuttle 
must return to the drop-box end before a change can be made 
from one color to another. There are a number of different 
motions in use to operate the drop boxes, one of the best of 
these being known as the sliding tooth box motion. 

BOX MOTION. 

This motion is illustrated in Figs. 4, 5 and 6. 

These figures show two views of the motion ; first when 
looking at the motion from the end of the loom, and the sec- 
ond when looking at the motion from the back of the loom. 
In Fig, 6 the shape of the eccentric C and the crank E is 
illustrated. In Fig. 4 A represents the driving pin in the 
pin- wheel, said pin-wheel being set screwed on the pick-cam 
shaft. B is the star gear. C, the single-box eccentric. D, 
the side lever. E, crank for two-box movement. F, the 
small segment gear. G, the double-sliding tooth. H, rod 
through which the top double-sliding tooth is operated. J, 
rod through which the bottom sliding tooth is operated. 

Operation of Motion and Boxes. — As the pin-wheel, which 
is set-screwed on pick-cam shaft, is carried around with the 



GINGHAM LOOM BOX MOTION. 



4:1 



shaft, the driving pin A passes into one of the recesses of the 
star gear and carries the gear forward. The periphery of 
this gear is divided into ten parts of seven teeth, and an 
empty space equal to three teeth. 





Fig. 4. 



Fig. 5. 



Fig. 6. 



Another make of star gear has ten parts of eight teeth 
and an empty space equal to two teeth. The small segment 
gears F have six teeth on each side with an empty space be- 
tween the teeth. The empty space on the star wheel and 
small segment gears are always directly opposite to each other. 
This is to allow the double-sliding tooth to pass in and out 
when the boxes have to be changed. On the same shaft with 
one of the small segment gears is an eccentric and on the shaft 



42 WEAVING PLAIN AND l^ANCY. 

with the other small segment gear is a crank. The eccentric 
and crank is to operate the boxes by raising or lowering them. 
The single-box eccentric C is illustrated in Fig. 6, and also 
the crank E. The side-lever D fits directly onto the eccen- 
tric. The drawings illustrate the motion when the boxes 
are in their normal position, viz, with first or top box oppo- 
site the race plate. When the eccentric and crank are in 
this position the projection on end of double sliding tooth is 
on the outside, so that when the loom is running the star gear 
■will revolve without coming in contact with the projection and 
boxes will not be changed. 

Timing of Box Motion. — The boxes are timed by the pin 
wheel on end of pick cam sbaft. This can be set to turn the 
star gear at any point. One setting is to have the driving 
pin in contact with the star gear when lay is eight and one- 
half inches from the breast beam with the lay coming for- 
ward. Another good setting, and one which will generally 
give satisfaction, is to set the driving pin in pin wheel to 
turn the star gear so as to have the boxes about one-eighth 
of an inch above or below the race plate when the dagger is 
in contact with the receiver. The receiver must be in the 
same position it will be in when loom is running. By the 
term, above the race plate is meant, when boxes are being 
raised ; below the race plate, when boxes are being lowered. 

To Raise from First to Second Box. — Insert a riser in the 
box chain im.der the lever which operates (through the rod 
H), the double-sliding tooth on the eccentric. This will 
force the short end of the double-sliding tooth between the 
star gear and the small segment gear and the projection on 
the end of the tooth will fill in the space between the two 
gears. When the driving pin in the pin-wheel turns the star 
gear, the first tooth in the gear will come in contact with the 



GINGHAM LOOM BOX MOTION. 43 

sliding tooth. This enables the teeth in both segment gears 
to be meshed into each other and the eccentric is turned half 
around. The deepest portion of the eccentric is turned from 
bottom to top, which raises the side lever D and consequently 
the boxes. This brings the second box opposite the race 
plate.- The long end of the double-sliding tooth is now be- 
tween the segment gears with the projection on end of tooth 
beyond the gears — this allows the star gear to revolve without 
coming in contact with the small segment gear. The finger 
will remain in this position until the boxes have to be changed. 

To Return Box to Original Position. — On the next bar in 
box chain leave off the riser. This will force outwards the 
double-sliding tooth and the projection on the end of tooth will 
fill the space between the two gears. When the. driving pin 
in pin-wheel turns the star gear, the first tooth of the gear 
will come in contact with the projection, and the eccentric 
will be turned to its original position, which will bring the 
first box opposite the race plate. 

To Raise From First to Third Box. — Insert a riser under 
the lever which operates (through the rod J), the double- 
sliding tooth on the crank which controls the two-box move- 
ment. This will bring the projection on tlie small end of 
double-sliding tooth between the two segment gears, and the 
crank will be turned half around exactly as in the case of 
the eccentric above described. 

To Bring Boxes Bach to Original Position. — On next bar 
of box chain, leave off the riser. This will bring the projec- 
tion on tooth between the two segment gears, and the crank 
will make half a rotation to its original position with the 
first box opposite the race plate. 

To Raise From First to Fourth Box. — Insert a riser in 
box chain under both levers. This will bring the projection 



44 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

on the sliort end of both double-sliding teeth between the two 
segment gears. When the driving pin in pin-wheel turns the 
star gear both the eccentric and the crank are turned half 
around and the fourth box is brought opposite the race plate. 

To Bring Boxes Bach to Original 'Position. — On next bar 
leave off both risers. This brings the projection on long end 
of both double-sliding teeth bctwc^en the segment gears and 
both the eccentric and the crank will be turned half around,- 
which will bring the boxes back to original position, the first 
or top box opposite the race plate. 

When making a fabric, the boxes do not change in the 
order given, that is to say, they do not return to normal posi- 
tion each time before a change to another box is made. The 
order as given above shows the principle of raising and lower- 
ing the boxes separately. In actual practice the changes 
are made according to the colors in the shuttles and the colors 
required in the fabric. 

The changes thus far indicated are as follows : First to 
second box, riser under single-box lever. Second box to first 
box, empty bar. First box to third box, riser under lever 
that operates the crank for the two-box movement. Third 
box to first box, empty bar. First box to fourth box, riser 
under both levers. Fourth box to first box, empty bar. 

Any change between these can be made. If two risers will 
raise from first to fourth box, then to lower to third box, the 
riser on the single-box lever is left out. To lower from 
fourth to second box, the riser under lever that operates the 
crank for two-box movement is left out. 



UilAPTER V. 

GINGHAM LOOM BOX CHAIN BUILDING. 

In building box chains there are several points that have 
to be taken into consideration. First, there should not be a 
skip from first to fourth box, or from fourth to first box, if it 
is possible to avoid it, as this subjects the motion to a great 
strain, for the boxes must be changed in the same time as 
when making a smaller lift. Second, when using a soft- 
twisted filling in one shuttle, that shuttle should be put in 
top box when possible, as this wull prevent the soft-twisted 
filling from clinging to the other filling. It is also often ad- 
visable to put the dark filling in top box when possible. 

Arranging the Colors in Boxes. — Example: A gingham 
fabric is required to be made from the following colors : 6 
picks white, 4 picks black, 6 picks white, 4 picks red, 6 picks 
white, 2 picks green. One of the best methods for obtaining 
the arrangement of colors in boxes is as follows : Write under 
each other the different colors as they occur in the fabric, 
then opposite each color mark the number of box in which the 
color is to be tried in ; the top box being the first box. Using 
example given. Fig. 7 illustrates the colors as they occur in 
example, also beginning in first line with the first color in 
first l>ox. This does not give a good arrangement, as there 
is a skip from first to fourth box, also from fourth to first 
box. The number of picks of each color to be inserted in the 
fabric is indicated at the side. The second or third arrange- 
ment will be satisfactory, as there is only a skip of one box. 
The box chain for this example is given at Fig. 8, using the 
second arrangement of colors. S indicates single lever to 
raise one box. C indicates crank to raise two boxes. X rep- 



46 



WEAVING I'LAIN AND FANCY, 



resents riser, emjDty squares represent sinkers. Each bar in 
box chain equals two picks. 



Wh.t. 


/ 


Z 


3 


»^ 


P,ck!> 


BInr k 


2 


1 


/ 


-.^ 


VV/T,fe 


/ 


z 


3 


-L 


Rpd 


^3 


3 


^ 


'^ 


lA/h,fe 


/ 


-2- 


J 


•L 


GriTf n 


4- 


4 


4 


= z 



sc 

><^_ 

x^~ 
X_ 
y _ 
_x 
_x 
x^_ 
y^_ 
x^_ 

X X 



Fig. 7 and M. 

MULTIPLIER. 

When check patterns are to be woven in which a hirge num- 
ber of picks of the same color are inserted in the fabric be- 
fore a change is made to another color, the multiplier is of 
great value, as considerable time is saved in building box 
chains, the length of the chain being greatly reduced. The 
Crompton and Knowles box-motion multiplier, in its simplest 
form, consists of a disc which has on its periphery two de- 
pressions. A ratchet gear is fastened to the disc, said gear 
having twelve teeth, each tooth representing two picks. With 
two depressions in the disc this will represent a twelve-pick 
multiplier. A small finger presses against the periphery of 
the disc, said finger being connected to a lever, which is 
under a pin in the driving pawl of the box-chain barrel. 
When the finger is in one of the depressions in the disc, the 
multiplier is stopped and the chain barrel is working, viz, 
tlie chain-barrel pawl is turning over the chain barrel one 
bar everv two picks. To start the multiplier, a riser is put 
in the box chain under the multiplier lever. This causes a 



GIKGHAAl LOOM BOX CHAIN BUILDING. 



47 



lever to be lowered and a pawl comes in contact with the 
ratchet gear on disc, and the disc is turned. The finger is 
forced out of the depression on the disc, which also raises 
the chain-barrel driving pawl out of connection and prevents 
further movement of the box-chain cylinder. The disc will 
continue to turn until the finger drops into the next depres- 
sion, and this will start up the box chain. From one depres- 
sion on the disc to the other represents twelve picks of the 
same color that will be put in the cloth before a change is 
made, so that if twenty-four picks of the same color are re- 
quired in the cloth a multiplier riser wdll have to be put on 
two adjoining bars of the box chain. 

Example : A gingham fabric is required to be made with 
the following colors, using a 12-pick multiplier; 6 picks 
black, 12 picks green, 6 picks black, 24 picks red, 4 picks 
white, 24 picks red. Fig. 9 illustrates the different arrange- 
ment of colors in boxes. The second and third lines give the 
best arrangement, as there are no skips whatever in these. 



F=ila.c k 


1 


3 


^ 


' b P,^ks 




z 


-f 


/ 


/Z 


niac J< 


1 


3 


^ 


~ 6 


R^H 


3 


2. 


3 


-Z4- ■■ 


yy^J^ 


4 


1 


+ 


: ^ 


R^J 


3 


& 


Z 


-Z^ 



y^SC. 


n 




X 






X 






X 


/ 


X 


X 






X 






X 






X 


X 


X 




><■ 


k 
















y 


K 




X 


X' 





Fig. 9 and 10. 

The box chain is illustrated at Fig. 10, using the second line. 
X represents riser, empty squares represent sinkers. S in- 
dicates single lever. C indicates compound lever. M indi- 
cates multiplier lever. 



48 



WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 



STILL BOX MOTION. 

This motion is indispensable to the box loom. Its purpose 
is to prevent broken patterns, that is, if the filling breaks, 
the chain barrel is not pushed foi^ward and the loom can 
therefor© be started up without making a mis-pattern. One 




Fig. 11. 

of these motions is illustrated at Fig. 11. A double cam A is 
fixed on the pick cam shaft. This cam revolves between the 
two levers B and C, which are pivoted at D. A locking 
lever E is mounted on a stud on the upper lever at G, said 
lever E locking with arm E^ mounted on stud F fast in lower 



STILL BOX MOTION. 



49 



lever C. A catch slide H is attached to the top end of the 
locking lever. The cylinder connector J is attached to the 
lower end of the cylinder lever C. The catch slide works 
forward and backward through a slotted sliding bar K, which 
is supported by a bracket to the side of the loom. The slotted 
bar is illustrated in Fig. 12. 



1 




D L 




Slot 


- 


- 



Fig. 12. 

Operation of Motion. — A rod extends the full width of the 
breast beam. On one end of the rod a finger is attached, 
which is in contact with the filling fork slide, and on the 
other end of the rod the finger L is attached. When the 
loom is running, the cam A revolves with the shaft, the lar- 
ger of the two cam surfaces operating under the top lever B. 
The two levers, B and C, are held together through the com- 
bined action of a spring and locking lever, so that when the 
top lever is raised the bottom lever is also raised. The cylin- 
der connector J is therefore raised, which forces over the 
chain barrel and at the same time gives a forward movement 
to the catch slide H, which passes through the slot in sliding 
bar. The small cam will draw back the levers. When the 
filling breaks, the filling fork slide forces back the finger 

4 



50 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

which is in contact with it, and this raises the finger L, at the 
same time raising the slotted sliding bar K. As the catch 
slide comes in contact with the bottom of the slot the for- 
ward movement is stopped. This forces back the locking 
lever E and causes the latter to turn on its pivotal support G, 
against the action of the spring, allowing the arm B to be 
raised by the movement of the cam while the arm C remains 
stationary, and the action of connector J on the chain barrel 
is immediately arrested. 

Timing of Still Box Motion. — AVitli lay on front center 
and shuttle in single box end, tlu* cam should begin to move 
+'orward the catch slide H. 

BREAKAGE PREVENTORS. 

The breakage preventor in the box motion consists of a 
spring bolt, which holds the top of the sliding tooth shaft 
box in position. This is a spring on an ordinary bolt and is 
of sutficient strength to keep the top of box in position when 
everything is in good working order. The empty spaces of 
tlie star gear and small segment gears should be directly oppo- 
site each other, so that the large gear can revolve without 
coming in contact with the small gear; but if from any cause 
the small gear should be turned over so that the large gear 
connects when it ought not to, the top of the sliding tooth 
shaft box will be forced up, and this will prevent the teeth 
in the gears and also the top of the sliding tooth shaft box 
from being broken. 

The small gear turning over fai-thor than it ouffht to is 
often caused by a weak spring on the spring lever. On the 
back of each cam are four projecting pins and a lever is held 
on two of the pins, which, if of sufficient strength, will pre- 
vent the cam fr<an moving out of position after being changed, 



BKEAKAGK PKE VEA' TOKS. 



51 



but if the spring is weak the small gear will partly turn over 
and be caught by star gear. Spring lever is shown at K, 
Fig. 5. 

Another breakage preventor is in the form of a spring 
clamp. The stud in the end of lifting rod T), Fig. 4, by 
which the boxes are raised and lowered, is held by a spring 
clamp. Fig. 13 illustrates an end view of the boxes and the 




l•i^^ lo and 14. 

s))ring clamp with the stud in elamp marked A. If the shut- 
tle should be trap])cd betwc cu the lay sole and boxes as boxes 
are being raised or lowered, tlie stud will be forced out of its 
])osition and no danuige will ]xi done to either shuttle or 
shuttle boxes. Fig. 14 illustrates the shuttle trapped between 
shuttle Ihix and lay sole as box is being lowered. It will 
readily be seen that unless the stud was forced out of posi- 
tidu either the shuttle or shuttle box would be broken. If 
the ])icker or auytliing else should get stuck in the boxes the 
s;niie lliiui;' will occTir. 



52 WEAVINc; PI>AIN AND FANCY. 

SHUTTLE CHECK CAM. 

On some box looms a shuttle check cam is used. This is a 
small cam about two and one-half inches or three inches in 
length and extends about one-half inch beyond the surface of 
the pick cam on the drop box side of the loom. When the 
crank is on back center the pick cone should be in center of 
cam and the lug straps set to hold the picker stick not more 
than one inch on the spindle. 



CHAPTER VI. 

GINGHAM LOOM FIXING POINTS. 

Shuttles. — All shuttles must be as near the same size and 
weight as it is possible to get them or good results cannot be 
obtained. The single box has to be fitted to all the shuttles, 
because if one shuttle is very much different from the others 
there will be trouble in running the sam.e. The shuttles 
should not be too large or they will chip through striking the 
iiKinrhpiece of the box. 

Sivells. — ^The swells should be bent to grip the shuttle about 
half-way, also to give a gradual check to the shuttle as it 
enters the box. The flat end of the swell should not be set 
full against the box, as there is always more or less loose 
filling when the shuttle is leaving the box, and if the end is 
full against the box there is a tendency to cut the filling. It 
is only necessary to have the extreme end of the swell against 
the box. 

Sharp Edges in Boxes. — In starting up a new set of boxes 
it is advisable to take oft" all sharp edges with a very fine file. 
The groove in swell must be perfectly smooth, as any sharp 
edges will cut the filling. The sharp edges of picker race 
should be taken oft" or shuttle will be cut. 

Shuttles Working Loose in Box. — When large patterns are 
made in which a shuttle is used only occasionally, there is a 
tendency for this shuttle to work forward in the box with 
the result that when the shuttle is picked across the lay the 
loom will bang oft". To overcome this the swell should grip 
the shuttle half-way, and shuttle should be held firmly in 
box, but not too tight. The boxes should work freely in the 
slides, but should not be loose or they will swing about, and 



54 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

this has a tendency to cause the shuttle to gradually move to 
the front end of box. The picking motion must also be set 
to give an easy pick. 

Putting on New Picker. — When a new picker is put on it 
must be perfectly true. If warped in any way good results 
cannot be obtained from it. The picker must work freely 
on the spindle and in the picker race. A small hole is often 
made in the picker where the shuttle strikes. A good hunter 
should always be kept on the spindle, as this saves the picker 
and the stud from the jar that would otherwise be given when 
the picker strikes the spindle stud. Bunters are made in 
different. ways, but a serviceable one is made from a strip of 
leather with spindle holes cut in it about two and one-half 
or three inches apart. A leather washer can also be put on 
the spindle between the holes. 

Guide Plate. — When the picker is at the back end of the 
box the face of the picker should be flush with the guide 
plate. If the face of picker is not flush, but is too far back 
in the box, the shuttles will also be too far back, and when the 
boxes are changing, the tips of the shuttles will strike the 
guide plate and will soon become flat on the end, which will 
cut the yarn as the shuttle is passing through the shed. A 
buffer is used on the back end of spindle and also in the back 
end of box, and by regulating this the face of the picker can 
be made flush with the guide plate. These buffers also re- 
duce the jar when the shuttle strikes the picker. The buffer 
in the back end of box can be made from cloth in the form of 
a roll, or can be made of leather. 

Setting the Boxes. — The boxes must be set so that the bot- 
tom of each box will be level with tlie race plate. If this is 
not done there will be considerable trouble with the shuttles 
chipping and also flying out. 



GINGHAM LOOM FIXING POINTS. 56 

The first or top box is adjusted bj the set nuts at the bot- 
tom of lifting rod. The second box is adjusted by the stud 
in slot at front end of lifting lever. The third and fourth 
boxes are adjusted by the stud in slot at back end of lifting 
lever, also by crank E. 

No positive rule can be given to set the boxes. Each box 
has to be set separately, beginning with the top box. If, in 
changing from one box to another, the boxes do not come 
level with the race plate after setting the first box, the lever- 
age is not equally divided. By moving the studs in slots of 
lifting lever backward and forward, according to whether the 
boxes are too high or too low, the right leverage will be ob- 
tained. Any change in either of the studs will correspond- 
ingly change the position of the boxes. 

To illustrate the difference in leverage when raising the 
boxes refer to Figs. 4, 5 and 6. When a change is made 
from first to second box the single box cam C is turned. 
This brings the largest part of the cam on top with the ful- 
crum of lifting lever at the back end of lever. To change 
from first to third box the crank E is turned. This brings 
the fulcrum of the lifting lever on the single box cam with the 
cam in its normal position, that is the largest part of cam at 
bottom. To change from first to fourth box both cams have 
to be turned. This will change the position of the fulcrum 
on the lifting lever. From this it mil be seen that as the 
position of the fulcrimi changes there can be no hard and 
fast rules given to set the boxes, but judgment must be used 
in setting them. The boxes must either be perfectly level, 
or the back end elevated a trifle with the front end level with 
the race plate. Under no circumstances must the back end 
of the box be lower than the front end. 

Boxes Shipping. — If the links on chain are not set right 
the chain will have a tendency to bind. The links should be 



56 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

put on the bars so as to have them alternate; that is, one 
outside and the next inside, on both sides of the chain to 
correspond. Short or bent links will cause the chain to ride 
on the barrel, instead of dropping in the notches. Double- 
sliding finger not working freely will cause the boxes to 
skip. It is necessary that this finger be kept well oiled, in 
fact, the whole motion must be kept well lubricated. 



CHAPTER VII. 

DOBBY HEAD MOTION. 

Two kinds of dobbies used in cotton mills are known as 
single action dobby and double action dobby. The single ac- 
tion has a closed shed, but the double action has an open 
shed. In a single action, the harness returns to the bottom of 
the shed every pick. These machines are not used very exten- 
sively, but where they are used, fancy lenos are generally 
made on them. This dobby has several disadvantages, the 
principal one is that the loom cannot run very fast because 
of the time required to change the harness from one pick to 
another. Another disadvantage is that the filling has to be 
beaten up into the cloth in a closed shed. The dobby that is 
most extensively used at the present time is the double action 
dobby. This dobby is often referred to as double index or 
single index dobby. The working parts of both are practi- 
cally the same, the actual difference between them will be 
explained under separate headings. 

DOUBLE INDEX DOBBY. 

A sketch of the working parts of a double index dobby is 
given at Fig. 15. The following are the names given to the 
different parts: A, harness lever. B, B^ are the jack hooks. 
C, jack. D, connection of jack with harness lever. F, rod 
which passes through all the harness levers. G, rod on which 
the ends of all the harness levers work. H, H,^ knives. J, J^, 
index fingers. K, rod which passes through all the index 
fingers. L, chain barrel. The harness lever A has a nimi- 
ber of notches on the top. These notches are for the purpose 
of regulating the lift on the harness shafts. Each harness 



oS 



WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 



shaft is connected to a harness lever by a mre loop and har- 
ness strap. The loop is put in one of the notches. For front 
harness shafts the loops are put in notches near the bottom 
and are stepped higher in the notches for back harness. The 
reason for this being that the back harness shafts have to 
travel a gi'ea,ter distance than the front harness shafts in 




Fig. 15. 

order to make the same size of shed. Rod F, which passes 
through all the harness levers, is fixed outside the frame of 
dobby. Its purpose is to keep the harness levers in contact 
with the rod G, and also to prevent the bottom of the levers 
from jumping out when levers are being raised. The index 
finger J is in contact with the top jack B through the needle 
E, but the finger J^ is directly in contact with the bottom jack 
hook B\ 



DOUBI.E INDEX DOBBY. 

SINGLE INDEX DOBBY. 



59 



A sketch of the working parts of a single index dobby is 
given at Fig. 1(5. In comparing this sketch with Fig. 15 it 
will be seen that the only difference between them is in the 
method of operating the jack hooks throngli the index fingers. 




Fig. lb. 

In this dobby one index finger operates two jack hooks, the 
bottom jack hook by Ijeing directly in contact with the finger 
and the top jack hook in contact through the needle E. The 
top of the needle is directly under top jack hook and the bot- 
tom of the needle fits into a small groove at the end of the 
index finger, so that when the finger is raised both hooks are 
lowered at the same time, and one of them will be caught on 
tbe knife that is moving outward on that pick. Stated briefly, 



60 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

the distinctive difference between the two dobbies is as fol- 
lows : In a single index dobby, one index finger operates both 
top and bottom jack hooks. The chain bar is turned over 
every pick, as each bar only represents one pick. In a double 
index dobby, one index finger is required for every jack hook. 
The chain bar is turned over once on every two picks as each 
bar represents two picks. There are twice as many index 
fingers in a double index (lobby as there are in a single index 
dobby. 

OPERATING DOUBLE INDEX DOBBY. 

In operating the dobby, the knives H, H^ are connected 
at each end by a knife hook to a rocking arm. The knife 
hooks are threaded on the end so that the knives can be 
set in different positions. Fig. 17 shows the knives con- 
nected to the rocking arm by the knife hooks. The rock- 
ing arms are fulcrumed in the center, and as one knife is 
coming forward the other is returning. To raise the har- 
ness shaft a peg is put in a bar in the chain. The chain 
is put on the chain barrel L, and the peg comes in contact 
with an index finger. If a peg is put under the index 
finger J the opposite end of the finger is lowered, because the 
rod K acts as a fulcrum for the fingers. This lowers the jack 
hook so that when the knife comes forward, the catch on the 
hook is caught on the knife and the harness lever and harness 
shaft is raised. This is clearly seen in Fig. 15. A peg is 
placed in the chain bar under the index finger J, which lowers 
the top jack hook over the knife H. As the knife comes for- 
ward, it catches the hook and pulls the jack and harness lever 
to position indicated by dotted lines. In many dobbies the 
rocking arms arc of different sizes. The front rocking arm 
is smaller than the one at the back. This is to allow greater 
leverage on the back harness. 



1)U1VI.\G CHAIN BAKKKL,. 61 

Driving Dohhy. — The dobby cau be driven either from the 
crank shaft or pick cam shaft. When driven from pick cam 
shaft a driving rod is connected from rocking arm in dobby 
to a crank setscrewed on end of bottom shaft. On this drive 
a pawl is always used to turn over the chain barrel. When 
the dobby is driven from crank sliaft the rocking arm is con- 
nected by a driving rod to a gear, which receives motion from 
gear on crank shaft of half the number of teeth, so that two 
revolutions of gear on crank shaft are required to make the 
inward and outward movement of knives in dobby. 

Driving Chain Barrel. — There are two distinct methods of 
driving chain barrel : First, by pawl fixed on front rocking 
ai-m. Second, by worm and worm gear. In the first method 
a ratchet gear is setcrewed on the front end of chain barrel 
shaft. This gear is pulled over by the pawl fixed to a stud 
in the lower portion of front rocking arm. The pawl pulls 
over the chain barrel when the lower portion of rocking arm is 
on its inward movement, so that when this driver is used 
each bar in chain represents tAvo picks. The distance chain 
barrel is turned, can be regulated by raising or lowering pawl 
stud in slot of rocking arm. When stud is raised leverage is 
decreased, but when lowered, leverage is increased. When a 
change is made in either case a corresponding change has 
often to he, nuide with tlie ratchet gear. 

The second method of driving is used on both single and 
double index dobbies, generally on single index. In this 
method motion is imparted to the chain barrel from the 
crank shaft. .One arrangement is as follows : A gear of 30 
teeth on crank shaft meshes in another gear of 60 teeth. This 
latter gear is setscrewed to an horizontal shaft that carries a 
small bevel gear on the opposite end, which meshes into 
another bevel gear fixed on a vertical shaft. At the top of 
the A'ertical sliaft a worm is attached which drives the worm 



62 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

gear on chain barrel shaft. This drive is for a single index 
dobby and a double worm is used. In setting any of these 
motions, care is required so as to obtain the correct timing. 

Betting Dobhy on Loom. — To set a dobby on a loom there 
are a few points that will require to be taken notice of. Ad- 
just the position of the cord rollers or sheaves so that the 
harness shafts will be suspended an equal distance from each 
side of the loom. Have the front cord roller adjusted so that 
the front harness will be from one-half to three-quarters of an 
inch behind lay cap when crank is on back center. Set the 
spring blocks on the tloor in a line with the roller cords. 
This can be obtained by dropping- a plumb from the rollers 
at the sides on which the cords work. The point thus found 
will be the center of spring block. Harness hooks can be put 
in harness shafts to correspond with plumb line. 

tStariing Up Dobbies. — When starting up a new dobby the 
harness levers will have to be adjusted so that they will work 
free and easy. The levers can be adjusted by set-nuts on 
each side of the frame. Dobby is generally run before con- 
necting up the harness straps, and in running, the levers 
slR)nI(l drop of their own Aveight. Every working part will 
require a good oiling. In a double index dobby with a 
worm gear drive for chain barrel, connection between driving 
of (lobby and chain barrel will have to be specially noticed, 
so that both can be set together on the same pick. To illus- 
trate: The dobby can bet set so as to have either the top or 
bottom knife coming outward on the first pick. If the first 
row of pegs in the chain govern the top set of jack hooks, the 
driver will have to be set so that the top knife will come out 
on first pick. If driving is set so as to have bottom knife 
coming outward on first pick, a broken up pattern will result, 
because the second row of pegs, which is the second pick, gov- 



OBTAINING SIZE OF SHED. 63 

ems the bottom jack hooks, and this will cause the harness 
that ought to be raised for second pick to be raised for first 
pick. The picks will be put in the pattern as follows : Sec- 
ond, first, fourth, third, sixth, fifth, and so on, which gives a 
ragged appearance to the pattern. 

Obtaining the Size of Shed. — The size of shed required on 
*■ a dobbj is just sufficient to allow the shuttle to pass through 
without chafing the yarn. The shed can be regulated gener- 
ally in three different places : First, driving crank. Second, 
rocking arm. Third, knife hooks. On some dobbies the 
size of shed can only be regulated at the driving crank and 
knife hook. In both cases tlie required adjustment can gen- 
erally be made. First have the harness shafts strung up to 
harness straps, with the springs attached underneath. Keep 
the yarn tight when tied to the apron and have the yarn just 
resting on the race plate. The reason for having the yarn 
just resting on the race plate is that when filling is beaten 
into the cloth the bottom shed is raised up a trifle. Have the 
hai'ness shafts level at both ends with the back harness shafts 
a little lower than the front. This is sometimes called an 
angular shed and is obtained by the harness levers coming in 
farther at tlie back, in other cases by increasing the length of 
the harness straps. Set the lower stud of connecting arm 
about half way in the slot of the driving crank and the top 
stud of connecting arm also about half way in the slot. The 
rocking arm should be vertical when the driving crank is on 
front or back center and the loom crank shaft past bottom 
center. When the driving crank is on top center, set the 
bottom knife about one-fourth of an inch behind the catch on 
jack hooks. When the driving crank is on bottom center set 
the top knife the same distance behind the catch on jack hook. 
This adjustment is made by set nuts on the knife hooks. If 
this setting does not give the correct size of shed the sweep 



64 



WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 



will have to be adjusted at either the driving crank or rock- 
ing arm. The object of setting the stud about half way in 
the slot is because that position gives a medium sweep of 
knives. If the shed is found to be too small the connecting 
stud will be brought to the outer end of slot in driving crank. 
This will give a larger sweep, therefore a larger shed, but 
in consequence of this larger sweep, when the driving crank 
is on top and bottom centers the knives will be too far behind 
the catch on jack hooks. It is also possible that this change 
of sweep may pull the knives too far back, so that they will 
strike the back end of the knife slide. In either ease the 
knives will have to be re-adjusted by the set nuts on knife 
hooks. If the shed is too large and a smaller shed is made it 
is possible that the knives may not get back of the catches on 




Fig. 17. 

jack hooks, and will have to be re-adjusted in just the oppo- 
site way to the former. 

Fig. 17 illustrates clearly the three positions where ad- 
justment in size of shed can be made, indicated by figures 
12 3 

J., .J, rJ, 

Pattern Chain Pegging. — In pegging chains, two items 



KEQUIREMENTS OF A GOOD DOBBY. 65 

have to be taken into consideration: First, is loom right or 
left-hand. Second, in what direction does chain barrel re- 
volve. It is necessary that these two items be known, espe- 
cially the first, for the following reason: If loom is right- 
hand, the dobby will be on left-hand side; but if loom is left- 
hand, dobby will be on right-hand side. If a chain has been 
pegged for dobby on right-hand loom it will not work on a 
dobby on left-hand loom unless turned round and last bar 
used for first. On some patterns this does not make much 
difference, but on others it does. It is advisable to have one 
system and adhere to it, viz: always begin with first harness 
on one side for all chain plans made. If this is done the 
chain can be made from chain plan with simple instructions. 
To illustrate : Have first harness shaft on right-hand side ; 
also have first pick in chain plan on top. On a right-hand 
loom, chain will be pegged from right to left, reading from 
first harness. On a left-hand loom, chain will be pegged 
from left to right, reading from first harness. If this system 
is used it is only necessary to state whether loom is right or 
left-hand. These instnictions are for chain barrel revolving 
iuAvard towards the loom. For an outward revolving chain 
barrel, it will be necessai-y to state this in giving instruc- 
tions, as R. H. out, and chain will be pegged opposite to 
inward revolving chain barrel. 

Requirements of a Good Dohhy. — The dobby that is the 
simplest in its construction where the different parts can be 
taken out easily to be repaired will be the best to use, every- 
thing else being equal. All the different parts of the dobby 
should be made in their right proportion. The index fingers, 
hooks, needles, should all work free with each other. Espe- 
cial notice should be taken of the index fingers. See that 
these fingers are cast straight and smooth, otherwise they will 
rub against each other and miss-picks will result. This oc- 
5 



'oQ WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

curs occasionally in a double index dobby. When this is 
the case the fingers will have to be taken out and finished off 
on the emery wheel to take all the rough places off them. A 
dobby that will require all this work doing to it when new 
is certainly not the dobby to select. Another requirement is 
that the dobby be of the right capacity with the loom, that is, 
if the loom is only adapted for a twelve harness dobby, it cer- 
tainly is not wise to jjut on the loom a twenty or twenty-four 
harness dobby. If this is done, every time the lay goes back 
it will strike the harness shafts and cause them to vibrate. 
This will result in poor weaving, the harness shafts will be 
continually catching on each other and making miss-picks and 
smashes, also if the harness straps are not securely fastened 
to the hooks, th(^ shafts will be continually dropping and 
making smashes. To use a dobby of n capacity of twenty to 
twenty-four harness shafts there should be at least ten inches 
between lay and crank shaft when lay is on back center. This 
is allowing the harness shafts to Ix' about three-eighths of an 
inch thick. 

PREPARATION OF HARNESS SHAFTS. 

In i)re))aring harness shafts there are several small details, 
which if properly attended to will help very materially the 
})roduction and quality of cloth. These details can be enumer- 
ated as follows: , 

Do not allow the heddles to get rusty. Rub heddle rods 
evenly with tallow or oil, or a mixture of tallow and oil. 
This allows the heddles to slide free on the rods. Put all 
heddles on shaft the same, that is do not put on some heddles 
with twisted ends on top and other heddles on same shaft 
^with twisted ends at bottom. Have the twisted ends of the 
heddles on all shafts the same, that is, have all on top or all 
on bottom. Have only one counts of heddles on a shaft, do 



DBAWI.XG IN THE WARP. 67 

not mix fine and coarse heddles together. Heddles must 
work free on lieddle rods. The hooks that support the hed- 
dle rod must iKjt be too deep in the shaft or the rods will 
hohl the heddles tight and they will not move freely. Have 
all hooks for heddle rods facing the front. Have heddle 
rods secured on both ends of the harness shaft This must 
be specially noticed, as a smash often results through heddle 
rods slipping out. Have harness hooks on top of harness 
shafts set in line. Have harness hooks set so that there will 
be a straight and an even pull on the springs. 

DRAWING IN THE WARP. 

Have the harness shafts suspended in front of drawing in 
frame with heaviest weaving harness in front. This is the 
general method of arranging the harness. For example, if 
a plain and fancy stripe is being made the plain harness 
shafts will be on front. If single beam, have slasher comb 
or lease level with heddle eyes. If two or more beams, al- 
ways put yarn from bottom beam over top of drawing in 
frame first, then yam from the other beams to follow. Have 
a rod between the threads from each beam to keep them sepa- 
I'ated. There are two methods of arranging the combs. 
First. Have the combs on the top of each other. The comb 
for bottom beam will be on top with the other combs under- 
neath. This brings the yarns from top beam in front of 
the yarn from bottom beam. This method does not take up 
iniich space. Second. Have all the combs level. The back 
coud) will be from bottom l>eam Avith the other combs in 
front. Put up harness shafts in right order, then have warp 
drawn in. On many patterns the harness shafts can be divided 
into sections to have the warp drawn in. Take, for example, 
fancy stripe to be made on plain ground. Harness shafts for 
])lain will be in front, harness shafts for fancy stripe will be 



68 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

at back. To divide in sections, leave olf the plain harness 
shafts and draw in fancy stripe, keeping each stripe sepa- 
rate. Put up the harness shafts for plain and draw in the 
plain threads. When the required number of threads have 
been drawn in on plain harness shafts for one pattern, pull 
the threads for one fancy stripe through plain harness shafts. 
Repeat this until all the warp is drawn in. It must be under- 
stood that this cannot be done on all patterns, only on those 
patterns in which the threads from each beam forms a stripe 
with all threads together. 

When warps are to be drawn in without a bander in, the 
drawing in hand begins on right-hand side ; with a bander in, 
on left-hand side. When all threads are drawn through hed- 
dles, draw the warp in reed. If reed is too wide, divide the 
space equally on both ends. 

STARTING UP THE WARP. 

Have the loops on harness levers in dobby stepped, that is, 
the front loops in lowest notches; raising the other loops in 
notches in the same proportion. Bring the beams from the 
drawing in frame on beam truck provided for that purpose. 
Su})i)ort the harness shafts between crank shaft and lay on 
two rods, then put beams in loom. Hang the harness on har- 
'ness straps. Attach tlie springs to bottom of harness shafts 
carefully. This is very important, especially when using fine 
yarns. It is also necessary to have the same strength of 
spring on each side of the shaft. One method of testing 
s]n'ings is as follows : Have a straight piece of wood about 
one yard in length with a screw in one end and at the other 
end lines ruled about half an inch apart with the lines num- 
bered. Take each spring separately, put one end on screw 
aiid suspend a weight on opposite end. This will pull out the 
spring a certain distance, which will be indicated by the 



STARTING UP THE WAEP. 69 

lines. Lay together all springs of the same strength, take 
springs to loom and connect the strongest springs to the 
heaviest harness shaft; that is, the harness shaft that has 
on it the most heddles and has the heaviest lift. Have whip 
roll level with harness eyes so that there will be an equal 
strain on the yarn when shed is open. Fix reed in lay sole and 
tighten up the lay cap. Put friction rope around beam heads 
to prevent from turning. Set the harness shafts so that the 
back shafts will be a little lower than the front. Both ends 
of the shafts should be level. Have the yarn just resting on 
the race plate. When weaving the yarn will be raised from 
off the race plate somewhat. Tie in the threads carefully to 
an apron. On fine yarns do not tie in too many ends at one 
time, as it is necessary to have every thread drawn tight be- 
fore tieing to apron, otherwise threads will be broken out. 

Divide the heddles equally in sections made by heddle rod 
hooks. If the heddles are not divided equally more will be 
left on one side than the other, and as a result the heddles are 
pulled out of their true position at the heddle rod hooks, 
which will cause the heddles to be crowded at this point so 
that when the harness shafts are being raised and lowered 
the threads are chafed. Put in the lease rods. For large 
rod, raise back harness shaft and eveiy alternate harness 
shaft. For small rod raise the opposite harness shafts. Set 
temples the required width. See that they do not come in 
contact with race plate or touch the reed. Put pattern chain 
in dobby and turn over lay. Open out the shed and throw 
shuttle through three or four times in same shed, then turn 
lay over and repeat this several times before starting up 
loom by power. Put on right pick gear. Occasionally a 
pattern chain is made to weave plain on all the harness shafts 
so as to get in the loose threads if there are any and to ob- 
ta.in a better starting up of the warp. 



("HAPTER VIII. 

DOBBY FIXING POINTS. 

The greatest fault that can be foimd with dobby cloths is 
miss-picks, and many pieces are rejected and put in seconds 
on account of them. This is especially true when old dobbies 
are used. There are various causes for miss-picks, which can 
by a little care be remedied before much damage is done. A 
number of these causes will be mentioned and a remedy for 
same, or a short explanation as to how the miss-pick is caused 
and the remedy can be applied. 

Pegs in Chain Bar Not Set Straight. — The pegs should be 
put in the chain bar perfectly straight, if not, the pegs that 
are not straight will get in between the index fingers. The 
index finger that ought to be raised will not be and a miss- 
pick results. Under each index finger there is a small 
groove, and if the peg is straight in tlie bar it will work in 
the groove. The chain should be put on the barrel and every 
bar examined before the loom is started up. 

W7'ong Setting of Chain Barrel. — The chain barrel should 
not be set too high nor too low. If set too high the index fingers 
wdll jump and this will have a tendency for them to catch on 
the knife when knife is coming out. If the chain barrel is 
set too low the hooks will not be lowered enough to get fully 
on the knife and as the knife moves out the hooks will often 
slip off. Especially will this be the case if the knife is worn. 
In some dobbies the knife can be turned when w^om on one 
side. In other dobbies the knife will have to be ground down 
straight all the way across and then re-set to take up the 
amount ground off. When a harness shaft drops in this 
manner the threads on that shaft are often broken out. This 
also causes the shuttle to fly out occasionally. 



DOBBY FIXING POINTS. 71 

Chain Barrel on Wrong Time. — The chain barrel must be 
set on correct time. A good general setting is to have the 
pegs in the chain bar directly under the index fingers with 
the knife about one-quarter of an inch from the catch on jack 
hook with knife making its outward movement. If the chain 
barrel is being turned by a pawl from the rocking arm, see 
that the check on the shaft of the chain barrel holds the bar- 
rel steady after being turned, also, that the pegs are directly 
under the index fingers with fingers at the highest point. 
This means that if the fingers are at the highest point, the 
jack hooks will be at the lowest, or in other words, over the 
knife so that as the knife comes forward the hooks will be 
caught by it. The check on shaft is a star wheel setscrewed 
on the shaft. A small roll is held against the wheel by a 
spring, which holds the barrel securely after being turned. 
If this star wheel should slip the chain barrel will be on 
wrong time and as a result the pegs do not full under the in- 
dex fingers and miss-picks result. The pawl may be set too 
low in slot of rocking arm and the chain barrel pulled over a 
little too far. In this case the check may possibly force the 
barrel to its correct position, but if it should fail to do this a 
miss-pick will result, because the barrel will not be in correct 
position. The remedy is to set the pawl higher in the slot 
aiid readjust the ratchet gear to the pawl. 

WeaJc Spring on Chain Barrel Shaft. — The spring is held 
on shaft by a collar, wdiich keeps the clutch in contact with 
the worm gear, this gear being loose on the shaft. If the 
spring should become weak, the clutch wdll be forced out of 
connection and chain barrel will not be turned. It occa- 
sionally happens when a large number of pegs are put in one 
chain bar that the check is forced out when the spring is weak. 
The remedy is to move in the collar which tightens up the 
spring. 



72 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

Harness Levers Too Tight. — The harness levers should not 
be too tight or they will bind. They should be just tight 
enough to drop of their own weight before the harness shafts 
are attached to them. This is regulated by set screws on the 
front and back of the dobby frame. The ends of these set 
screws are in contact with the bottom portion of an harness 
lever, and by turning these set screws in or out the desired 
movement of the harness levers can be obtained. Also, neg- 
lect in oiling will cause them to bind. 

Jack Hook Binding. — If a jack hook fits too tight on the 
jack where hook is connected, it will cause the hook to bind. 
This will keep the hook from dropping over the knife and har- 
ness shaft will not be raised. The end of the jack can be 
opened a little with a screw-driver, but care must be taken 
not to open too wide or it will catch on tlie end of the next 
jack when returning, and this keeps the threads from being 
lowered to their regular position and makes a miss-pick as 
well as causing them to be broken out. The jack with the 
opened end will be raised by the next jack when it ought 
not to be, and this often causes threads to be broken out. The 
best method to ascertain whether the miss-pick is caused by 
the jack hook binding is to raise up the hook and it should 
drop of its own weight. It will do this if working free. If 
a jack hook touches or comes in contact with the guide it is 
often prevented from dropping. In some cases the hook 
drops, but too late to be caught on the knife, and the harness 
shaft is left down when it ought to be raised. 

Index Fiiiger Binding. — An index finger occasionally 
touches or comes in contact with a pin in pin-board or the 
index finger guide. This prevents the finger from dropping 
and a harness shaft is raised when it ought not to be. This 
can be prevented by setting the index finger so that it will 



DOBBY FIXING POINTS. 73 

pass clear between the pins or guide. Another cause of finger 
binding is given in ^'Requirements of a good dobby.'' 

Chain Bar Too Short. — Occasionally a chain bar is a little 
shorter than it ought to be. This allows the bar to slip about 
on the baiTel and causes a peg to get in between the index 
fingers, especially if the peg should happen to be a little 
crooked in the bar. 

Chain Bar Too Large. — Occasionally a chain bar is a trifle 
too large. The bar will fit tight in the chain barrel and in- 
stead of dropping from the chain barrel is taken around with 
it and the chain gets stuck. 

Peg Too Short. — Occasionally a short peg is put in the 
chain. The index finger in not raised high enough, conse- 
quently the jack hook is not lowered sufficiently to be caught 
on the knife. 

Be7it Connecting Links. — Chain bars are connected to each 
other by small links. Often additional bars have to be added, 
and when connecting them together these small links are 
bent, and this in many cases brings the bars a trifle closer 
than they ought to be. The result is that the bars will occa- 
sionally bind on the chain barrel instead of dropping off, and 
this causes the chain to get stuck. 

Chain Bars Too Far Apart. — If the connecting links are 
not pressed together as close as they should be, the bars will 
occasionally ride on the barrel, which causes a miss-pick. 
This often happens when chain bars are tied together with 
twine on account of the knots slipping. 

Chain Barrel Not Turned Over Far Enough by Pawl. — If 
barrel is not turned over far enough by pawl, the pegs will 
not be in correct position. The check sometimes forces the 



74 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

ban'el to correct position, but if it fails to do so a miss-pick 
results. 

Worn Index Finger and Index Finger Bod. — If the rod 
which passes through all the index fingers is worn the fingers 
will not work steady, or if the index finger bearing is worn 
the result will be the same, there will be too much lost mo- 
tion. The principal reason for the bearing or rod wearing 
out is neglecting to oil these parts. This fact cannot be 
emphasized too strongly. The only remedy is to insert new 
index finger and rod. 

Other Causes. — Unequal springs on harness shafts will 
cause miss-picks. Poor filling will also cause miss-picks or 
perhaps a better term for this is broken picks. The filling 
will break and catch again on the same pick and this shows 
a broken pick in the middle of the cloth. This occurs mostly 
on fine work. 



CHAPTER IX. 

PICK AND PICK LOOMS. 

These looms are called pick and pick looms because there 
are four boxes on each side of the lay and both picker sticks 
are picked at the same time. Having four boxes on each 
side of the lay an odd number of picks can be inserted. This 
is very convenient and necessary when a single pick of a 
certain specified color has to a])pear in the cloth at certain 
intervals. 




Fig. 18. 

Head Motion. — The working parts of the head motion on 
one of these looms is illustrated at Fig. 18. This motion is 
specially adapted for weaving light weight worsteds, also cot- 



76 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

ton fabrics. The construction and description of this mo- 
tion is as follows: 

The harness lever A has an equal number of notches on 
both ends, and these are for the purpose of regulating the 
size of shed. Each harness shaft requires a harness lever, 
and the harness sliaft is connected to the top of the lever 
through connections, by a loop, and also at tbe bottom in the 
same manner as indicated by dotted lines in sketch. 

The loops can be put in any of the notches, but they must 
be put in to correspond, that is, if the loop on top is in first 
notch the loop at bottom must also be in first notch. This 
will make an equal-sized shed, viz : the harness will be 
raised and lowered an equal distance. The front harness 
shafts are operated from the bottom notches, gradually being 
stepped for the back harness shafts. 

The harness lever A is pivoted at the point B, and the har- 
ness is positive in both directions of its movement. The rod 
C, which extends from front to back of the head motion frame, 
prevents the levers from jumping when they are in motion. 
The harness lever is connected to the vibrator gears by a con- 
necting arm D. This arm hooks on the harness lever at one 
end and is connected to the vibrator gear by a small stud, 
which allows freedom of motion to the gear. The vibrator 
gear E is connected to the vibrator lever F by a small stud 
in the center of the g-ear, and the gear works free on the stud. 
The chilled run G is riveted to the vibrator lever. The risers 
in pattern chain operate on these to raise the vibrator lever 
and gear. This run also prevents the lever from being worn. 
H and H^ are the cylinders; I, the cam that works the lock 
knife K ; L, the drop weight. The position of the harness 
lever and vibrator gear in sketch shows the harness raised. 
The cylinders rotate in the direction indicated by the arrows. 

On the top and bottom of the vibrator gears an empty space 



OPEllATlOA OF HEAD MOTION. 77 

is made by leaving out some of the teeth. When the harness 
lever is in its normal position — the harness at the bottom — 
the narrow, empty space, which is equal to the space occupied 
by one tootli, will be on top, and the wide, empty space, 
which is equal to the space occupied by four teeth, will be 
at the bottom. In this position the stud which connects the 
connecting arm to the vibrator gear will be on the front of 
gear nearest harness lever, and the slotted half circle in the 
vibrator gear will be at the back. This slotted half circle 
works around a projection marked "m" on the vibrator lever, 
and the extreme ends of the slotted circle are held against the 
projection when the gear is turned forward or backward, as 
this is the distance the gear is required to be turned. This 
allows the stud that connects the connecting arm D to the gear 
to be a little below the centre, and the drop weight L being 
held against the connecting arm by the spring, prevents the 
gears from jumping while the loom is running. The large 
gear O is fixed on the end of the chain barrel shaft by a 
soft-pointed set screw, so that if the chain or anything about 
the chain should get stuck, the soft point will allow the gear 
to turn and breakages will be prevented. 

Operation of Head Motion. — When the harness shaft is at 
the bottom of the shed, the small empty space in the vibrator 
gear will he, on top, and the slotted half circle in the gear at 
the back. The vibrator lever is then resting on a grate at 
point marked '^n," which extends across the frame of the mo- 
tion. The wide empty space at the bottom of the vibrator 
gear allows the bottom cylinder to revolve without coming in 
contact with any of tlie teeth. To raise the harness shaft, a 
riser comes under the chilled run G on the vibrator lever, and 
this raises the vibrator gear sufficiently for the teeth in the 
top cylinder to come in contact with it, and the gear will be 
turned over to the position indicated in the sketch. 



78 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

To return the harness shaft to the bottom of the shed, the 
riser is taken from the bar in the chain, which allows the 
vibrator lever to drop and rest on the grate at ''n." The 
vibrator gear is then low enough for the bottom cylinder to 
come in contact with it, and the gear is turned, whicli lowers 
the harness shaft. The bottom cylinder is shown in Fig. 18 
in contact with vibrator gear. 

Timing of Head Motion. — -When the crank is just behind 
bottom center have the first tooth oi cylinder in contact with 
first tooth of vibrator gear. 

LOCK KNIFE. 

Tlie purpose of the lock knife is to keep the vibrator levers 
rigid while the vibrator gears are rotating. When a riser 
conies under the chilled run G on the vibrator lever, the lock- 
knife finger must be on the extended portion, or on the highest 
part of the cam which causes the knife to be out, and this 
allows the vibrator levers to change. When the low part of 
the cam comes around, a spring immediately pulls the lock 
knife between the ends of the levers, and this holds the levers 
down. 

. . ^ 

Tinting of Lock Knife. — The timing of the lock knife^is to 

have the finger on the center of the extended portion of the 
cam when the vibrator levers arc crossing each other, that is, 
changing from one chain bar to another. Another method of 
setting is as follows : Turn the chain barrel so that the vibra- 
tor levers will be full open, and have the lock-knife finger 
just about to drop into the de])ression. 

HARNESS LEVELLER. 

This leveller is a rod that extends from the front of the 
head motion frame to the back, and is directly in front of the 



REVKKSK MOTIONS. 79 

grate N in which the ends of the vibrator levers rest. When 
it is necessary to level harness shafts, for a piek-ont or to 
draw in a number of threads, this leveller is used. By rais- 
ing the leveller, all the vibrator levers and gears are raised, 
and then by turning around the cylinders, by an handle fixed 
on front of top cylinder shaft, the top cylinder conies in con- 
tact with all the vibrator gears, and the harness shafts are 
levelled. 

REVERSE MOTION. 

This motion is to reverse the direction of the chain, so 
that the right pick and box can be obtained if the filling should 
break and the loom run one or two picks before stopping, also 
to turn back the chain after a pick-out. This motion is 
driven from the shaft of the bottom cylinder, which extends 
out about two inches, and has a spline in it. On this shaft 
are two loose gears, one of 14 teeth and the other of 17 teeth, 
which are also splined to correspond with the shaft. The 
spline is for tlie reverse key to slide in and out. These gears 
are held on the shaft by a collar. Directly above the two 
gears mentioned is a compound gear of 14 and 17 teeth re- 
spectively, the two gears of 14 teeth being meshed into the 
gear marked O on the end of chain barrel, Fig. 18, but the 
two gears of 17 teeth are meshed into each other. The re- 
verse key has a projection on the end of it, and when the head 
motion is running the kev is in as far as it will ffo. This 
causes the bottom small gear of 14 teeth to give the forward 
motion to the chain barrel. To reverse the motion, the key 
is pulled out as far as it will come, which brings the projec- 
tion on the end of key into the spline of outer gear of 17 
teeth. This gear being meshed into the outer of the com- 
j^ound gear reverses the direction of the chain barrel. 



80 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

MULTIPLIER MOTION. 

This motion is to economize in space and to save time in the 
building of box chains. The changing of this particular mo- 
tion is accomplished by an extended bar in the box chain. 
The shaft of the pattern chain barrel extends beyond the back 
of the head motion frame. The box chain barrel is mounted 
on a sleeve that fits on the shaft of the pattern chain barrel. 
On the end of the sleeve a star wheel is attached. On the 
same shaft is another sleeve which has a star wheel and a 
notched flange that carries the multiplier chain attached to it. 
The star wheels are driven by pin gears that are directly under 
them. To start tlie multiplier, an extended bar is put in the 
box chain, the extension passing under a finger, which is con- 
nected by a series of levers to the pin gear that drives the 
star gear on multiplier chain. This will start the multiplier, 
which will continue to work until a riser comes up on the 
chain, which will bring the inner pin gear in connection with 
tiie star wheel on box chain barrel and start up the box chain. 
Whenever an extended bar is used the multiplier will work. 

HAND DISCONNECTOR. 

The purpose of the hand disconnector is to disconnect the 
head motion from the driving gear so that Avhen the filling 
breaks and loom runs for one or two picks before stopping, 
the pattern and box chains can be reversed to find the right 
pick. This motion is illustrated at Fig. 19. An eccenti'ic 
gear A is set-screwed on the crank shaft and meshes into, 
another eccentric gear B that carries on its face a bevel gear. 
This bevel gear is meshed into clutch gear 0. Clutch gear 
C is divided into three portions. The middle portion is se- 
curely fixed to upright shaft D. The top and bottom por- 
tions are loose on the shaft. The top portion has a pin con- 
nected to it long enough to pass through the middle and int^ 



HAND DISCONNECTOE. 



81 



the bottom portion, and this makes the three portions act as 
a solid gear when loom is running. The cylinders E are 
driven by bevel gears fixed on the upright shaft D and ro- 




Fig. 19. 

tate in opposite directions. When the chain has to be turned 
back to find the right pick, the handle E is pulled back, which 
raises the top portion of the clutch gear and this pulls the 



82 



WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 



pin out of connection with the bottom portion of the clutch 
gear and the head motion is disconnected from the loom. 
The reverse motion is set and the top cylinder turned by 
handle fixed on the front of the shaft until the right pick is 
found. The handle F is then pushed back and the pin passes 
into the bottom portion of tlie clutch gear, making one solid 
gear, as shown in figure. 




Fig. 20. 
BOX MOTION. 

This motion is illustrated at Fig. 20. The boxes are 
raised by means of levers and chains connected to the head 
motion. These levers are worked from the head in the same 
manner that the harness levers are worked. Two connecting 
arms are required to raise four boxes, the short arm to raise 
one box, the long arm to raise two boxes. The chain begins 
at point marked B on lever A and passes around a series of 
pulleys to the bottom of lifting rod of boxes, where it is con- 
nected. When the boxes are in their normal position, viz, 



OYLINDKKS. 83 

top box opposite race place, the lever A is in position indi- 
cated by dotted lines with lever C in its present position. 
The levers A and C in figure show the position of levers when 
a single box has been raised. A direct pull on the chain is 
made when lifting for a single box. When raising two boxes, 
the long connecting arm is pulled forward, which brings the 
lever C in position indicated by dotted lines. With the single 
lever as at A, the fourth box will have been raised, but with 
lever A, as in dotted line, the tliird box will have been raised. 

Regulating Lift on Boxes. — The lift on single box is regu- 
lated by moving the adjustable nut B on end of chain up or 
down the slot in lever A. If boxes raise too high, lower the 
nut; if too low, raise the nut. The double box is regulated 
bv adjustable connection B in lever C. If boxes do not raise 
high enough the connection must be lowered, but if boxes are 
raised too high the connection must be raised. 

Timing of Box Motion. — When the crank has just past bot- 
tom center, have the first tooth of box motion cylinder in con- 
tact with vibrator gears, or when crank is just past top cen- 
ter, have the driving pin in connection with the star wheel. 

CYLINDERS. 

The cylinders E, Fig. 19, are divided in two portions, one 
to work the harness, the other to work the boxes. The portion 
that works the boxes is set about three teeth behind that which 
works the harness. This will allow the harness to change 
and be in position to receive the shuttle as it leaves the box; 
also if the boxes were changed at the same time as the harness, 
considerable trouble would be experienced in running the 
shuttle, which would cause it to chip. 



84 



WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 



FILLING STOP MOTION. 



Fl^X- 21 illustrates the stop motion used on a pick and pick 
lonni. This is a center stop motion and is in the middle of 
tlu 1 y, so that the loom will stop immediately when filling 
is hi'o;-en. It is constrncted as follows: Upright rod A is 




Fig 21. 

directly under the back end of tilling motion dagger, B. The 
bottom end of the rod is attached by a stud to a slotted bracket 
at C. This rod is threaded at the bottom and can be raised or 
lowered. A small connection D connects the filling motion, 
dagger B, to cam on stud that carries the filling feeler wires 
E. F, is the receiver fixed on brake rod G. Illustration 
sliows position of filling feeler wires Avhen lay is on back cen- 
ter. A slot is cut in middle of lay to allow the feeler wires 
to i^osc; iiito when fillino; is broken. The filling is laid under 



FILLING STOP MOTION. 85 

the feeler wires by the shuttle, and as the lay comes forward 
the feelers descend but are kept from entering the slot by the 
filling, and the dagger passes under the receiver. When fill- 
ing is broken, the feeler wires descend into the slot and filling 
motion dagger strikes the receiver and loom is stopped imme- 
diately. To enable the loom to be turned over by hand when 
necessary, a shield II is arranged so that it will drop in front 
of the receiver and the filling motion dagger does not con- 
nect. This setting of the shield on the brake rod, as illus- 
trated in lower portion of figure, is not exactly as it appears 
on loom, but is here given to make the explanation clearer. 
The shield, which is about two inches wide, is centered on 
tlic brake rod G and is operated by the finger K. This finger, 
which is heaviest at back end, is fixed in the center to a 
heavy wire rod that extends under the breast beam to the side 
of loom, this end being directly behind the shipper handle. 
When shipper handle is pulled back to start up the loom, it 
comes in contact with the wire rod and this causes the end 
of the finger H to force dovm. the extension on shield, and 
this will raise the shield above the receiver. When loom is 
stopped the shield is released and drops in front of receiver 
so that loom can be turned over by hand. Illustration shows 
jiosition of shield when loom is running. 

A foot release is connected to the brake rod at side of loom. 
This release is for the purpose of releasing the brake on the 
loom. At the extreme end of the brake rod a small finger is 
set-screwed, and when the foot release is pressed down the 
finger forces forward a lever fulcrumed on its center, which 
releases the brake on the loom and brings the receiver directly 
in front of dagger. 

Timing of Filling Stop Motion. — With crank shaft on bot' 
torn center have tlie dagger in contact with receiver and feeler 
wires just above the race plate. Adjustment for lift of feeler 



S6 



WEAVIXG PLAIIN^ AND FANCY. 



wires is made by upright rod A. When this rod is vertical, 
the feeler wires are at the highest point and crank shaft has 
passed the back center. By moving the rod in the slot at 
C or by adjusting the rod at screw connection the lift of 
the feeler wires can be changed. 




Fig 22. 

BAT WING PICK. 

This picking motion is also called the ball and shoe pick 
illustrated at Fig. 22. The balls A are fixed on end of arm 
B. As the arm is on pick can shift a ball comes in contact 
with the shoe C every pick. The shoe is constructed so that 
there will be a gradual incline from the bottom to the top 
point. The ball first comes in contact with the end of shoe 
and travels up the shoe. The pick begins slowly, increasing 
in speed and finishes with a good firm pick. The shoe can 
be moved backward or forward on the shaft, but for best 
results it must be set so that the ball will come in contact 
with the whole of the shoe, beginning at the bottom and 
travelling to top. If the shoe is moved backward the ball 
will strike near the top thereby causing a sudden pick. If 
the shoe is set too far in. a harsh jerky pick will be given. 



BAT WING PICK. 87 

whicli is very detrimental to the picking motion. The arm 
D is connected by lug straps and sweep stick to picker stick 
as in an ordinai-y drop box loom. When the loom is picking, 
the arm should be in line with the picking stick. The lug 
straps should be set as near level as possible. 



CHAPTER X. 

dOX CHAIN BUILDING FOR PICK AND PICK LOOMS. 

As previously stated, in a pick and pick loom there are 
four boxes at each end of the lay, and both picker sticks are 
picked at the same time; therefore, it is not necessary that 
the shuttle be picked back again into the box from which it 
first started before a change of boxes can be made. The 
great advantage that a pick and pick, loom has over an alter- 
nate pick loom, or in other words, a gingham loom, is that a 
single pick of any color can be put in the cloth at any time, 
whereas in a loom that has drop boxes only on one side and 
which is an alternate pick loom only even number of picks 
can be put in the cloth of any color. It must always be re- 
membered that on every pick in a pick and pick loom there 
must be an empty box at one end to receive the shuttle that is 
being picked from the opposite side, otherwise the shuttles 
will meet in the middle of the shed which often results in a 
smash. 

LAY-OUT. 

A simple and easy method of obtaining the box chain for 
any pattern is to make a lay out as follows : Kule four lines 
of squares to represent the four boxes on one side, leave a 
little space, then rule again four lines of squares to represent 
four boxes on opposite sides, or, to save time, use a design 
paper with large squares. Mark on top of these squares the 
numbers 4, 3, 2, 1 and 1, 2, 3. 4. These numbers represent 
the boxes on each side, 4 is the bottom box, 1 is the top box. 
Then mark over the numbers the color of the filling. The ob- 
ject of making this layout is to obtain the best and easiest 
changes of the boxes when chana'ing from one color to another. 



J.AYOUT FOR BOX CHAINS. 



89 



To illustrate, a lay out is given at Eig. 23, for a box chain 
for the following pattern: <! ])ieks white, 3 picks blue, 2 
picks ]'e(l and 3 picks blue. 

The colors in boxes are arrangecl : Avhite, first box, R. H. 
side; red, tirst b<'X, L. 11. side; blue, third box, L. H. side. 





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Pattern calls for six picks white, this color is in the first 
box, E. H. side, so must be picked across to L. H. side and 
back again for six picks. Indicate by a dot, the box the shut- 
tle has left ; also indicate by a dot the empty box the shuttle 
enters on opposite side, this is for the first pick. For the 
second pick the shuttle can be brought back to the box from 
which it started. As there are an even number of picks the 
shuttle will remain on E. H. side, so that the box in which 
the shuttle remains can be indicated by W, which is the color 
of filling. This wall have to be repeated three times, but 
to save time the number of picks can be indicated at the side. 
Pattern now calls for three picks blue. The shuttle is picked 
from third box, L. IT. side, to second box, E. H. side. As 



90 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

there are an odd number of picks the shuttle will remain on 
E. H. side. This is indicated by B, and the number of picks 
at the side. Pattern now calls for two picks red. Shuttle is 
picked from first box, L. H. side, to third box, R. H. side 
and back again, as indicated by letter R, and number of picks 
at side. Pattern now calls for three picks blue. The shuttle 
is picked from second box, R. H. side, to third box L. H. side, 
and the number of picks indicated at side. This makes a 
complete repeat of the pattern, each shuttle is back into the 
box from which it started. From this lay out, the chain plan 
can readily be made as illustrated at Fig. 24. 

S indicates single lever to raise one box, C indicates com- 
pound lever to raise two boxes. 

When making a box chain there are a few points which, if 
remembered and kept constantly in mind, will greatly assist 
in the even running of the loom. First, when the boxes at 
both ends are changing together it is advantageous to have the 
boxes on one side lowered while the boxes on the opposite side 
are being raised. Second, as the time allowed in changing 
the boxes is the same for a large lift as for a small lift, it is 
necessary to have the lifts as small as possible, that is, avoid 
a lift of three boxes whenever possible. Take a simple illus- 
tration of changing the boxes when both sets of boxes are 
changing at the same time. A fabric requires two colors, 
say black and white, colors to be inserted pick and pick. 

There are two methods of working the boxes for this pat- 
tern. Have the shuttles in first and second boxes R. H. side, 
black filling in top box, white filling in second box. 

First method: 1 R. H. to 1 L. H., black; 2 R. H. to 2 
L. H., white; 1 L. H.. to 1 R. H., black; and 2 L. H. to 2 
R. H., white. 

Second method: 1 R. H. to 2 L. H., black; 2 R. H. to 1 
L. H., white: 2 L. H. to 1 R. H., black, and 1 L. H. to 2 
R. H., white. 



MULTIPLIER. 91 

111 tlie first method the boxes are raised and lowered to- 
gether. In the second method, a box on one side is lowered 
while a box on the opposite side is being raised. The strain 
on the loom when changing boxes by the second method, will 
be uniform, and the loom will run evenly. Much depends 
on the maimer in which the shuttles are placed in the boxes. 
If when making a layout for a box chain the boxes do not 
change uniformly, by changing shuttles in boxes satisfactory 
results can generally be obtained. 

MULTIPLIER. 

The multiplier bar in box chain on this loom is an extended 
bar. This bar is about one-half inch longer than the ordinary 
bar in box chain. This extra length passes under a lever, 
which, through a series of levers, starts up the multiplier 
chain. The chain will continue to work until a riser comes 
up, which will again start up the box chain. This multiplier 
is a single-pick multiplier, that is, each bar in the chain rep- 
resents one pick, so that the number of empty bars on the 
chain and the bar with a riser on it will be the value of the 
multiplier. In other words, when an extended bar is put 
in the box chain the multiplier is started, and if there are 
nine empty bars and one bar with a riser on it, the value of 
the extended bar will be ten picks. The multiplier can be 
made to multiply for any number of picks. The advantage 
in using a multiplier is in the fact that there is an economy 
in space, because a long box chain is dispensed with that 
would otherwise be required ; also there is a considerable sav- 
ing in time, which, if anything, is more important than the 
saving of a large box chain. 

The multiplier is only used when a number of picks of the 
same color are required to be put in the cloth together. 

To illustrate this principle, a lay-out and chain plan is 



92 



WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 



given at Figs. 25 and 26, for the following pattern: 1 pick 
green, 6 picks white, 2 picks black, 6 picks white, 3 picks 
drab, 6 picks white, 2 picks red, 6 picks white. M in box 
chain indicates Multiplier. A X under M represents an 
extended bar, empty square under M, an ordinary or short 
bar. In other parts of chain, X represents risers. Empty 
squares sinkers. A six pick multiplier is used. If multiplier 



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had not been used, G4 bars would have been required. At the 
end of a repeat in any box chain the shuttles must be in the 
boxes from which they first started, otherwise another repeat 
will have to be made. In this examj)le at the end of one re- 
peat the shuttles are in boxes as follows : L. H. side, drab in 
first box, red in fourth ; E. H. side, black in first box, green 
in second, white in third. Another repeat is made in order 
to bring shuttles back to their right boxes at the end. First 
repeat is indicated by heavy line. 



CIIAPTEll XI. 
HEAD MOTION FIXI^!G POINTS. 

Jliss-Fuls. — A niuiiber of the causes of miss-picks will 
be given. These iniss-picks cause defective work and are 
often seen in finished goods. 

Links on Cham Bars Wrong. — The links should be put on 
both sides of the chain bar regular, viz : one outside, one in- 
side. Sometimes they are put on the bars with one end of 
link outside and the opposite end inside of next link. This 
causes the chain to get stuck, and chain bars are often sprung. 

Sprung Bars. — Sprung or bent bars are often very hard 
to detect, and require close watching, but they are a frequent 
cause of miss-picks. The bars should be straightened, but 
when this can not be satisfactorily done a new bar should be 
substituted. 

Worn Bars. — The bars can be worn in different places. 
First, at link end. Such a bar should be replaced imme- 
diately as there is always the tendency to cause miss-picks. 
Second, by the riser wearing grooves in bar into which it 
sinks. The only remedy is to replace with new bar. 

Worn Riser. — This will have about the same effect as the 
worn bar. The riser will sink too low on the bar and fail 
to operate the vibrator lever. A new riser should be used. 
The risers often become worn at the sides of the hub, and 
this allows too much freedom on the bar, especially if the 
sinkers or blanks are also worn. When this occurs a very 
liberal use is made of twine to patch up. The proper way 
is to replace the old risers and sinkers with new ones. 



94 WEAVING PLAIN AND FANCY. 

Worn Links. — These allow too much play of chain bars, and 
as a result the bars are not always on proper time or in cor- 
rect position, and miss-picks occur. The holes being worn 
oblong allow the bars to become too far apart. The holes in 
bars should be perfectly round. 

Short Links. — Occasionally a short link is mixed with the 
regular sized links. When this happens, a miss-pick is al- 
most certain to result. The chain bar instead of dropping in 
the notch of the flange on chain bar, is held outside, and 
this not only causes a miss-pick but is often the cause of the 
chain bar being sprung. 

Bent Links. — All links should be perfectly straight. If 
from any cause the links are bent, miss-picks Avill result. 
They are often bent at one end and also bent in at the hole 
through which chain bar passes. This holds that particular 
bar tight, and as a result instead of dropping from the chain 
barrel is taken around with it, and this causes a doubling up 
of the chain. 

Loose Chilled Run. — When the chilled run is loose on the 
vibrator lever, the run is apt to be caught by the next riser 
which causes the wrong harness shaft to be raised. 

Chain Barrel on Wrong Time. — If the chain barrel is on 
wrong time miss-picks will result. 



?^l^# 



WILLIAM FIRTH, 
President. 



FRANK B. COMINS, 
Vice-Pres & Treas 



AMERICAN MOISTENING 

COMPANY, 

79 Milk Street, BOSTON, MASS. 

MAKING A SPECIAL TY 
OF HUMIDIFICATION , 



We are prepared to advise as to 
the best introduction and ar- 
rangement of a Moistening Sys- 
tem. Our facilities for manufac- 
turing and metlnod of installation 
enable us to quote the lowest 
prices consistent with the high 
standard maintained iQ all details 
of our equipmeQt. No pains 
spared to bring every equipment 
up to the highest point of effici- 
ency, the desired results being 
carefully considered in all depart- 
rT)eQts requiring special attention. 

OVER 60.000 OF OUR HUMIDIFIERS 
IN USE. 

Southern Representative, 
J. S. COTHRAN, 



Trust Building, 



Charlotte, N. C. 



The Standard 



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JOHN W. FRIES 



WINS TON- SALEM. N.C. 




©GARLAND 



s%1 






MANUFACTURING COMPANY, 

5ACO, MAINE 



Formerly T>OOM PICKER CO., Bid.leford, Maine. 






Manufacturers of 
Rawhide and Leather Loom Pickers, 
Loom Harnesses and Reeds, 
Ticking and Duck Lug Straps, 
Tape Picker Loops, Leather Strapping, 
Black Oak Tanned English 
Picker Leather, 
North Carolina Hickory- 
Picker Sticks. 



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ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE 
SENT ON REQUEST. 






Jones & Laughlin 

^^ steel Company ^— 

AMERICAN IRON AND STEEL WORKS 

PITTSBURG, PENNA. 



We are prepared to 
nianufactine your 

Shafting Equipment 

Complete, Including 

Forged O. H. Head Shafting, 

Cold Rolled Line Shafting, 

Flange, Compression and Friction 

Couplings, Bearings, Pulleys, Gears, 

Sheaves, etc., etc. 

Send for our Illustrated 
Catalogue. 





SALES 


offices: 


CHICAGO 


NEW YORK 


BOSTON 


BUFFALO 


CLEVELAND 


ATLANTA 


DETROIT 


SAN FRANCISCO 


ST. LOUIS 



PHILADELPHIA 
CINCINNATI 
NEW ORLEANS 



ESTATE 



EDWARD R. LADEW, 



SUCCESSOR TO 



FAYERWEATHER anZ LADEW, 



Sole Manufacturer of 

Hoyt*s Pure 
Oak Tanned 

FLINTSTONE 



SHORT LAP LEATHER 
BELTING. 



200-204 Willia.m St., Cor. Fra^nkfort, 

NEW YORK. 

















Factory 






GLEN 


COVE, 


NEW YORK. 




New 


York. 








Chicago. 




Philadelphia. 






PittsburgK. 




Boston. 






Charlotte. N. 


C. 




Newa^rk. 






Atlanta, Ga. 





SOUTHERN 

BOBBIN, SPOOL AND SHUTTLE 
COMPANY, 

H. B. WORTH, Treas. 
GREENSBORO, - - - - N. C. 



UNIVERSAL 



THE UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OF WINDING 






— is as comprehensive as its name implies. 



^ THE NEW NUMBER FIFTY WINDER covers the 
widest ran^e of work ami \>y means of inteirhaiigealile 
parts can he adapte.l lor (■()MN(i and TriUN(; or 
])OrBLIN(i two and thiee ends up. The eostof special 
attachments is so reasonahle and the extra parts reipiired 
so few that manufacturers can easily aliord to car. y full 
e(|uipments in stock to have thrni availahle for ddlerent 
conditions of winding. ...... 

v** J* J* 

€1 THE UNIVERSAL " NU-TAPER " OPEN-SPACED 
CONE gives al)solutely perfect delivery with uniform 
tension from start to linish of unwindiui.'. .>oft spun 
yarn can he N"/' (i<'n,,'i — the automatic leiief of tension 
and pressure during winding insuring a paiticularly deli- 
cate handling. The r.\IVi-;HSAl. SYSTK.M is the only 
method of winding which does not crush, crinkle or 
stretch the yam, disturh the twist nrdestroy theelasticity. 

.M V-"* J* 

§ THE UNIVERSAL WINDING MACHINE is p acti 
cally an<i mechanically perfect. Its self-oding arrange- 
ment gives insurance against wear and guarantees long 
life; and its mechanism is proof against derangement 

(^% ^% t^% 

q THE UNIVERSAL WINDING SYSTEM is now 

being applied to WARPL\(; and WEAVlN(i. We wilj 
shortly announce the practical adaptation of the TNI- 
VP]RSx\L CONE to warp creels and the application of 
UNIVERSAL WOUND COP!>J to broad loom shuttles. 



UNIVERSAL WINDING COMPANY, 



BOSTON, 



MASS, 



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^ 



\' Vwi^t>i. 



Individual-Motor Drive 
For Textile Mills 




Westinghouse Induction [V|otor Driving Stafford Loom 



^, An increase of production in textile mills 

may be accomplished in different ways ; lor in- 
stance, by adding more machinery, involving the 
use of more space and of more operators. A bet- 
ter method is to use Westinojhouse Individual- 
Motor Drive, effecting an increased out-put from 
your present machines, without increasing the labor 
bill. If you want to known about electric drive 
for textile mills, ask 

Westinghouse Electric <& Mfg'. Co. 



Atlanta 

Baltimore 

Boston 

Butfalo 

Chicago 



Cincinnati Kaiisa.s r'ity Xew York Salt Lake City 

Cleveland Los .\ngeles I'h/ladelphia San Francisco 

Dallas Minneapolis Pittsburgli Seattle 

Denver New Orleans St. Louis S yracuse 
Detroit 

Canada: Canadian Westinghouse Co.. Ltd. Hamilton. On ^ 



V^ 



Mexico: (i. it O. Braniff'& Co.. (Uty of Mexico. 



-yj 



General Electric Company 

Electric Power 
for Textile Mi'ls 




(MMieratiiig- liooiii in tlic I-'iilton ISag 
and ( otton Mills. Atlanta. <;a. 

The history of the electric drive in textile mills is a record of success- 
ful General Electric Induction motor application. 

Twelve Years Ago— 700 M. P. To-Da> -l 40.000 H P. 



(^ieneral Eleotrip induction motors 
were installed in tlie llr>t electrically 
operated mill in the world. These 
motors are to-day "as good as the day 
they were started." and have never 
given the slightest trouble. 



In the r. S.. alone. o\ei 180 textile 
mills are operated by (General Electric 
induction motors, lifl ving an aggregate 
capacity of 140,000 fl. P.— two-thirds of 
the total electrical horse-power in- 
stalled in textile mills. 



The Mill Power Department 

Embodying the ri])ened knowledge and varied experience of these 12 years of 
successful work will take uyi your project in detail. Special attention is given to 
the use of individual drive. In more than a thousand ease- a motor has been 
directly connected to an individual textile machine. Careful study is given to 
each case to determine the relative merits of individual drive or group svstem. 



Principal Office: SCHENECTADY. N. Y. 



1220 



Philadelphia Offi.e: '2 I ,>< So. 1 Ith St. 



■iales offices In all lars;f cities. 



^ 



T-iniTfflTllfflli I «»— '■■iiiMMi. 



LOOMS 



FOR EVERY WOVEN FABRIC 







( Uo.MPloX >v K.NoWLK.-^ i.K.M LuoM. 



CROMPTON & KNOWLES 



General Offices 
and Works! 

WORCESTER, MASS. 



Branch Works! 
PROVIDENCE, R. I. PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



conrLiinEiNiTi' of 



fa 



Wf 



t^p''^" 






>il> 



°P 



FEMLE, H/i, 



BWILBiEKS or Ti 



QwrnKQF Loon 





WORKS 



Taunton, Mass. 



COTTON MILL MACHINERY 




CARDS, 

COMBERS, 

DRAWING FRAMES, 
SPINNING FRAMES, 
MULES, 

LOOMS. 

Southern Office 

CHARLOTTE, N. C. 



OUR NAME STANDS FOR ALL 
THAT IS BEST IN WEAV- 
ING MACHINERY. OUR LOOMS, 
DOBBIES, BOX MOTIONS AND 
FANCY WEAVING APPLIANCES 
ARE WELL AND FAVORABLY 
KNOWN IN EVERY COTTON 
MANUFACTURING SECTION OF 
THE COUNTRY. WE INVITE 
CORRESPONDENCE FROM ALL 
THOSE WHO ARE INTERESTED 
IN THIS CLASS OF MACHINERY. 



The Stafford Compuny 



READVILLE, MASS. 



THE 



i WHITIN MACHINE WORKS 

Whitinsville, Mass., 
BUILDERS OF 

COTTON MACHINERY. 




Cards, 

Drawing Frames, 
Twisfers, 
Looms. 



■WHITIN 4x1 DROP BOX LOOM," 



Railway Heads, 
Spining Frames, 
Reels, 



Comhing Machinery, 

Spoolers, 

Long Chain Quillers, 



STUART W. CRAMER, 

Southern Agent. 

Trust Building, Equitable Building, 

Charlotte, N. C. Atlanta, Ga. 



Si 




m 



KALLE AND CO. 



(Incorporated) 



Manufacturers of 



^ 
» 



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Ji ANILINE COLORS. 1^ 
















Works! 

BEIBRICH-ON-RHINE, 
GERMANY. 



Main Olfice : 

530-536 Canal Street, 
NEW YORK. 

Branches ! 

Boston Philadelphia 

Providence Greensboro, N. C, 






1^ 



i 



i 



5«ii 






H. A. METZ & CO. 

122 Hudson Street, NEW YORK, N. Y. 

Agents for the United States and Canada 
for the products of Farbewerke Vorm, 



Meister Lucius and Bruening :: :: :: S 



Alizarine Colors 

Aniline Colors 

Indigo MLB 

Chemicals 



* laboratories: 

^ NEWARK, N. J. 



^ 



Branches! Branches! 

J^ BOSTON, MASS CHICAGO, ILL. U^ 

j| PHILADELPHIA, PA. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. * 

PROVIDENCE, R. I. MONTREAL, CANADA. ^ 

CHARLOTTE, N. C. TORONTO, CANADA. 

., ATLANTA. GA. HAMBURG, GERMANY 



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FREDERICK JONES & CO., i 



MAKERS OF ^ — ^ 



TEXTILE DESIGN PAPERS 

FOR ALL FABRICS 



SEND FOR SAMPLES 

5»< 58 North 4th Street, PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

JS^ iJt *it 'A' 'it 'it* 'it' 'JKX 'X 'X X 'it 'it 'it,* *il "it 'it' 'il' "A* 'il* 'Jl* 'K *il' "it' 'Jl' X X X 'X 'X 'X 'X V^ 



THE METALLIC DRAWING ROLL CO. 



INDIAN ORCHARD, MASS. 



'^ Man ufacturers of ^ 

I METALLIC ROLLS E 

H Especially adapted for Cotton Mills. || 

25 to 33 per cent more Production w, 

Guaranteed. Weight Reduced 33 to ^ 
50 per cent. No Leather Covering 
Bill. 



WRITE FOR PARTICULARS 



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w> 



APR 3 1907 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

I i 11 i nil ill I III N 

018 533 080 i « 



